Part of the ByLanderSea America 250: Road to Revolution Series
The War Was Won—But Peace Had Yet to Be Secured
The surrender of British General Charles Cornwallis at Yorktown on October 19, 1781, marked the decisive military victory of the American Revolution. For many, the war seemed over.
Surrender of Cornwallis By John Trumbull – http://www.aoc.gov/cc/photo-gallery/ptgs_rotunda.cfm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1379717
It wasn’t.
Although the guns had fallen silent in Virginia, Great Britain had not yet recognized the independence of its former colonies. British troops still occupied New York City, Charleston, and Savannah, and no treaty had been signed. Winning the war on the battlefield was only the beginning. Now came the equally challenging task of winning the peace.
For nearly two years, diplomats worked across the Atlantic to transform military victory into an internationally recognized nation. (I think most of us forget this piece of history.)
Diplomacy in Paris
Peace negotiations began in Paris in the spring of 1782. Representing the United States were four remarkable men: Benjamin Franklin, already admired throughout France for his scientific achievements and diplomatic skill; John Adams of Massachusetts; John Jay of New York; and later Henry Laurens of South Carolina.
Benjamin West, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons Unfinished Treaty of Paris: It shows, from left, John Jay, John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, Henry Laurens, and William Temple Franklin; the British refused to pose.
Franklin had spent years cultivating France’s friendship, securing the financial aid, military assistance, and naval support that proved essential to victory at Yorktown. Now he faced an equally difficult assignment—helping negotiate favorable terms for the new nation.
The negotiations were far from simple. Although France had been America’s indispensable ally during the war, French interests did not always align perfectly with those of the United States. John Jay became convinced the Americans would secure better terms by negotiating directly with Britain. John Adams agreed. Franklin, recognizing the importance of maintaining unity among the American commissioners, eventually supported the decision. The negotiations were delicate, sometimes tense, but ultimately successful.
A Remarkably Favorable Peace
On September 3, 1783, representatives of the United States and Great Britain signed the Treaty of Paris. Its terms exceeded nearly everyone’s expectations.
Great Britain formally recognized the independence of the United States. The new nation gained territory stretching from the Atlantic Ocean west to the Mississippi River and from Canada south to Spanish Florida. Americans retained valuable fishing rights off Newfoundland and agreed that pre-war debts would be honored. The treaty also recommended restitution for Loyalists whose property had been confiscated during the war, although enforcement varied from state to state.
Historians have often described the agreement as one of the most favorable peace treaties ever granted to a victorious former colony. The United States emerged not only independent but with abundant land and extraordinary opportunities for growth.
Yorktown had won the war. Paris secured the peace.
Following the Story Today
One of the pleasures of writing this Road to Revolution series has been visiting many of the places where history unfolded. You can see the actual document at the National Archives in Washington, D.C.
Although the treaty bears the name “Treaty of Paris,” surprisingly little marks the exact site where negotiations took place. The American commissioners met at the Hôtel d’York on Rue Jacob, where the building still stands as a private residence. During my upcoming visit to Paris, I hope to stand outside that historic address and imagine Franklin, Adams, and Jay negotiating the future of a new nation.
Last summer, I visited the Adams National Historical Park in Quincy, Massachusetts, where John and Abigail Adams eventually retired after decades of public service. Their beloved home, Peacefield, reflected the quieter life Adams longed for after years spent helping build a nation through both war and diplomacy. Walking through its rooms, it was easy to forget that this peaceful gentleman had once helped negotiate one of the most significant treaties in American history.
The library at Peacefield, the historic home of John Adams and his family in Quincy, Massachusetts, was built in 1870 (after his death) at the request of his son, Charles Francis Adams. The Stone Library houses thousands of volumes collected by generations of the Adams family—a remarkable reflection of one of America’s most influential political and intellectual dynasties.
History has a way of connecting places separated by hundreds of miles. I love that.
Did You Know?
Although the Treaty of Paris was signed on September 3, 1783, British troops did not evacuate New York City until November 25, 1783. Known today as Evacuation Day, the British departure marked the final withdrawal of British forces from the United States.
Looking Ahead
The Treaty of Paris formally ended the Revolutionary War and secured America’s independence. Yet one final chapter remained before the Revolution truly came to a close.
George Washington had led the Continental Army through eight long years of war. Like John Adams, he desired nothing more than to return home and resume the quiet life he had left behind. Many expected him to remain at the head of the army—or even seize political power. Instead, he performed an act that astonished the world.
He voluntarily resigned his commission, surrendered his military authority to Congress, and returned to Mount Vernon. His greatest victory did not come on the battlefield. It would come in walking away from power.
In my next post, I will take you on a tour of George and Martha Washington’s home, Mount Vernon in Alexandria, Virginia. It holds many memories as I grew up near there and have visited many times.
Bylandersea America 250: Exploring the Road to Revolution
In the wake of the stunning Patriot victory at Battle of Kings Mountain, the momentum in the Southern Campaign began to shift. But it was at a quiet pastureland in South Carolina—an unassuming place called Cowpens, where that shift became undeniable.
On January 17, 1781, American forces under Daniel Morgan faced the aggressive British commander Banastre Tarleton. What followed was one of the most brilliantly executed tactical victories of the entire Revolutionary War.
Morgan knew his opponent well. Tarleton was bold, fast, and often reckless. Instead of meeting force with force, Morgan designed a clever plan that used terrain, timing, and psychology to outmaneuver the British.
He arranged his troops in three lines. First, sharpshooters. Then militia. Finally, his most reliable Continental soldiers. Each group had a role—and an escape plan. The militia were instructed to fire a few volleys and then retreat, creating the illusion of collapse.
It worked.
Tarleton, believing the Americans were fleeing, charged headlong into the trap. As British troops surged forward, they met disciplined resistance from the Continentals. At the same time, Patriot cavalry under William Washington swept around the flank.
Within an hour, the battle was over.
The result was staggering. The British suffered heavy losses, and Tarleton’s feared legion was effectively destroyed. Even more importantly, Cowpens weakened British control in the South and set the stage for the campaign that would lead to Yorktown.
Visiting Cowpens Today
Today, the Cowpens National Battlefield preserves this pivotal site with a sense of quiet reverence. Unlike larger, more crowded historic parks, Cowpens feels open and contemplative—much like it must have in 1781.
A walking trail loops through the battlefield, marked with interpretive signs that help you follow the action step by step. As you stand in the fields, it’s easy to imagine the unfolding strategy—militia falling back, British advancing, and the sudden turning of the tide.
The visitor center offers exhibits that explain the battle in detail, along with artifacts and a short film that brings the story to life.
For photographers, the soft light of morning or late afternoon adds depth and mood to the rolling landscape. It’s a place where history and atmosphere meet.
Why Cowpens Matters
Cowpens wasn’t just a victory—it was a masterclass in leadership and strategy. Morgan’s tactics are still studied in military academies today.
More importantly, the battle restored confidence to the Patriot cause in the South. Following defeats and uncertainty, Cowpens proved that the Continental Army could outthink and outfight the British.
Together with Kings Mountain, it marked the beginning of the end for British dominance in the region.
A Note for Outlander Fans
Fans of Outlander may find this chapter of the Southern Campaign especially compelling. The series touches on the complexities of loyalty, militia warfare, and frontier battles much like those fought here.
Cowpens offers a real-world glimpse into that turbulent time—where neighbors took sides, and the fate of a nation hung in the balance.
Colonial Williamsburg offers an immersive and meticulously researched window into life in early America. I have returned many times over the years, and each visit deepens my affection for this extraordinary place. I am delighted to share my Colonial Williamsburg travel guide with you and hope it inspires your own journey.
Colonial Williamsburg is the nation’s oldest and largest living history experience, and it remains close to my heart. There are moments when I feel as if I truly belong on Duke of Gloucester Street, moving through the city as it once stood when Williamsburg served as Virginia’s 18th century capital.
A mile-long historic corridor stretches from the 1693 Wren Building at the College of William & Mary to the reconstructed Capitol. This remarkable “Revolutionary City” encompasses 301 acres, including 88 original structuresand hundreds of carefully reconstructed houses, shops, public buildings, and gardens. Skilled tradespeople and costumed interpreters animate the streets, while ongoing research, archaeological digs, and restoration projects ensure the site is constantly evolving.
Visitors wander along car-free lanes or ride by horse-drawn carriage, pausing to watch artisans at their benches and merchants behind shop counters. The craftsmen truly practice their trades—producing goods for sale and items needed throughout Colonial Williamsburg. Guests also encounter the Nation Builders, actor-interpreters who portray influential figures from the city’s past.
These individuals represent real men and women—black and white, free and enslaved—whose lives shaped Williamsburg and the larger story of America. Many Nation Builders devote years to studying their historical counterparts, developing a deep understanding of their voices, choices, and experiences. Ask a question, and they reply in character, sometimes using documented quotations.
The chance to grasp our nation’s early struggles from the fight to break from British rule and the parallel struggle of those held in bondage—offers a powerful reason to visit. History may whisper in many places, but in Colonial Williamsburg, it speaks with clarity and conviction.
However, the destination offers far more than history. Colonial Williamsburg also makes an ideal girlfriend getaway, family vacation, romantic escape (after all, Virginia is for Lovers), and Baby Boomer retreat. Visitors discover a city with fine dining, world-class museums, resort-style lodging, heritage gardens, championship golf, soothing spas, and charming antique shops—plus plenty of walking for those who enjoy exploring on foot.
Add nearby Jamestown Settlement and Yorktown, along with modern attractions like Busch Gardens, and you have a destination that truly offers something for everyone.
Before you go: Planning your Colonial Williamsburg itinerary
Be sure to check out any special events happening during your visit—they abound most seasons.
Save time by purchasing your tickets and making dining reservations online. Also, Viator offers a wide assortment of tours and experiences.
Plan for a minimum of two days for a Williamsburg visit.
While roads circle the historic district, the streets inside the tourist area are closed to traffic. Begin at the Visitor Information Center, where parking is plentiful. You can use the hop-on/hop-off shuttle buses to traverse the perimeter of the historic city, offering multiple stops.
Teens and adults should not miss the introductory movie, Story of a Patriot. Yes, it was filmed in 1957 but restored beautifully. Where else can you catch a view of Jack Lord before his Hawaii Five-O days?
Guide to Colonial Williamsburg: the must-see historical buildings
While there is no right or wrong way to visit Williamsburg, the Capitol building offers an ideal starting point for your Colonial Williamsburg walking tour. What happened within its walls shall we say, brewed discussions leading to discontent, the Revolutionary War, and the eventual formation of the independent United States.
The original Capitol, completed in 1705, functioned as a two-story H-shaped structure, connecting two buildings by an arcade. Each wing served one of the two houses of the Virginia legislature, the Council and the House of Burgesses.
The building burned in January 1747, and a second built on the same site suffered the same fate.
Today’s replica Capitol, on the same foundations and per the same plans, became one of the first sites to open in February 1934. Guided tours start in the General Courtroom, the highest judicial court in the colony.
The bay features stunning woodwork and round windows. In the House of Burgesses, you can see the original 1735 Speaker’s chair. Council and Conference Rooms occupy the second floor.
Before gaining independence, British royal rule in Virginia came locally– a royal governor. A grand brick structure, irreverently nicknamed “the Palace” by colonial subjects, was built in 1714.
The overall design sought to impress visitors with a display of authority and wealth, and it does indeed. The Governor’s Palace became the home to seven royal governors until the last one fled.
Following the Revolutionary War, the structure acted as the executive mansion for the first two elected governors in Virginia— Patrick Henry and Thomas Jefferson. In 1780, the capital of Virginia moved to Richmond.
The main building succumbed to fire in 1781 while in use as a hospital for the American wounded at the Siege of Yorktown.
A tour of the Palace, reconstructed in the early 1930s, takes you through the front door into an entrance hall. You’ll find it lined with an ornate display of swords and muskets. (Many European castles and mansions feature similar presentations.)
The first floor also includes a parlor, dining room, and an office. A grand supper room and ballroom were added to the rear. Their bright blue and vibrant green paint surprises many visitors. According to Kim Ivey, a CW curator, “Every single item installed was done so for a well-documented reason.”
The tour exits into the lavish formal gardens that invite leisurely strolls. The plots incorporate clipped hedges, rectangular parterres, and garden species used in the early eighteenth century.
Stunningly beautiful tulips fill the gardens in the springtime. Other highlights include a tree-shrouded tunnel walkway and boxwood maze that kids (and I) adore. Don’t miss it!
Some 90-acres and 25 smaller gardens remain open to the public around town.
Bruton Parish Church and Graveyard
Burton Parish Church at night. Photo by Debi Lander.
The steepled Bruton Parish Church was designed by Royal Governor Spotswood and completed in 1715. In 1907, this original building became the first structure to undergo restoration.
Rev. Goodwin used this example to convince John D Rockefeller, Jr. to commit funds to bring back the historical city. The big dreams of these two men helped spark the restoration movement around the world.
The Bruton Parish Church and graveyard both invite explorations. Two of Martha Washington’s children rest there.
If possible, attend one of the evening candlelight harpsichord and organ concerts in the sanctuary. It’s hard to describe the lost-in-time feeling that period instruments, candlelight, old pews (maybe a seat George once occupied) create.
The Raleigh is open for tours, not like several others serving today’s guests with period dining, drinking, and music. Learn how the building functioned as an important social meeting place and a tavern for drinking, debate, and lodging.
One room contains a billiard table dating to 1738. Outback lies a large kitchen.
In the summer of 1956, I was a young girl visiting Colonial Williamsburg with my family for the first time. We finished a tour in the Raleigh Tavern when the clouds burst open. We scurried into the rear kitchen building, cramming in with many others.
A delightful aroma of gingerbread baking in the beehive oven surrounded us. The scent became irresistibly enticing, and everyone bought cookies handed over in brown paper sacks.
My cookie was so yummy the memory and smell still linger in my brain. Make sure to buy one or make your own using the recipe in this blog post: Williamsburg Gingerbread Cookies.
You will walk back and forth along the lengthy street packed with homes, taverns, craftsmen, and merchant shops. Look for colorful signs hanging outside that denote the type of craft.
Stop into the 1770 Courthouse and the Powder Magazine, where the town’s artillery was stored. If you haven’t read my story on the Gunpowder Incident in 1775, please find it here. Peruse the outdoor Market Square, perhaps buying a tri-corner hat or sunbonnet.
Turn off the main route onto the Palace Green lined with catalpa trees. It remains one of my favorite places to sit, rest, and contemplate the people who lived here in the past.
If time permits and your legs aren’t too weary, join a guided tour inside the nearby Peyton Randolph House or the brick home of lawyer George Wythe.
A nighttime stroll becomes one of the loveliest ways to absorb the atmosphere along Duke of Gloucester. Lanterns light the way while candlelight glow seeps from house and tavern windows.
If you’re an early riser, meander Duke of Gloucester before it comes alive for the day. The setting evokes a marvelous sleepy feel, especially when foggy. Or consider joining the college students and fitness enthusiasts jogging the mile-long stretch.
The Wren Building at the College of William & Mary
Most first-time visitors don’t get around to touring the Wren Building on the campus of William & Mary. It ranks as the oldest college building in the United States, built between 1695 and 1699, even before Williamsburg’s founding. The college itself was chartered in February 1693 by King William III and Queen Mary II.
At least take a sightseeing drive around the beautiful 1,200-acre campus. The grounds incorporate ponds, bridges, and sunken formal gardens, especially enchanting in spring.
The college’s modern Muscarelle Museum of Art, with 4,000 works, might also be of interest.
Craft Houses/Demonstrations
The craftsmen working their trades fascinate all visitors, young and old. They use 18th-century tools and techniques to apprentice in — and eventually master —woodworking, gunsmithing, or basket weaving, to name a few.
These world-renowned experts make goods for sale or for use by other institutions around the world. They welcome questions.
Children are drawn to the blacksmith, shoemaker, milliner (hat maker), and brickyard. When possible, kids can even create a brick. Did you know the bricks and nails used for Williamsburg reconstructions were handmade there, just like the originals?
Most tourists don’t understand the research behind the authenticity of this destination, rarely found elsewhere. Colonial Williamsburg presents the accurate location and design of homes and buildings where our forefathers lived and worked.
Leave the Wiliamsburg museums for a second day, but explore the expanded joint venture: the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum and the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum. See colorful and whimsical collections of toys, portraits, weathervanes, and much more in the Folk Art Museum. I could spend hours in these.
Take time to appreciate the beautifully crafted furniture, musical instruments, home goods, textiles, and artworks in the DeWitt Wallace. Don’t miss the famous Charles Wilson Peale portrait of George Washington. The site includes a fantastic gift shop and convenient café.
Anticipating Williamsburg? Turn those plans into reality!
Lodging: Enjoy a charming stay in Williamsburg with Booking.com. Choose from historic inns to modern hotels that reflect the area’s rich colonial history. It costs a bit more to stay in the historic district, but being able to wslk to everything becomes a big plus.
Entertainment: Step back in time with Viator in Williamsburg! Explore reenactments and historical sites that bring American history to life in this iconic colonial town.
Although the food served in the taverns traces back to similar fare cooked by colonists, the preparation takes place in modern kitchens. The servers, however, are dressed in period clothing.
The dishes, flatware, and goblets are authentic reproductions of 18th-century items. Minstrels frequently provide musical entertainment. Look forward to tasting Peanut Soup, Sally Lunn bread, Brunswick Stew, or a syllabub.
To get the true feel for this historic city, I suggest you overnight in one of the Colonial Homes. I’ve done this three times, and each experience felt different, fun, and oh so memorable.
You choose between stand-alone colonial houses or a private room within a larger colonial home, known as a Tavern Room. Meticulously reproduced spaces resemble the period but with modern amenities. Rentals usually come with an admission pass.
My favorite lodging experience was spent in the Robert Carter Kitchen, tucked behind the house next to the Palace. I stayed there with my two daughters, and our little room was enchanting.
A Carriage Ride on the streets of Colonial Williamsburg. Bylandersea
We could overlook grazing sheep, and the Palace illuminated at night. I reserved the last carriage ride of the day, and the driver dropped us off in front of “our” house! Talk about a memory.
Those looking for five-star and AAA Five-Diamond luxury should choose the iconic Williamsburg Inn. Many presidents and even the Queen of England have slept there.
No worries, if you can’t afford the rates, drop in and tour the property. Consider indulging with an extraordinary breakfast in the elegant Rockefeller Room or lunch in the Terrace Room overlooking the golf course.
The Williamsburg Lodge (now part of the Marriott Autograph Collection) offers a relaxing retreat, just steps away from all the action.
Williamsburg Woodlands becomes an excellent choice for a family. It conveniently rests next to the Visitor Center.
Nature surrounds the newest lodge, the Griffin Hotel, but it sits out of the historic district.
Other options not managed by Colonial Williamsburg include the sprawling Kingsmill Resort or the family-friendly Great Wolf Lodge.
More things to do in the Williamsburg area
Spa
Treat both your mind and body to a rejuvenating experience at The Spa (official website). Arrive early for your treatments and linger afterward to enjoy steam rooms, showers, and whirlpools, as well as the relaxation lounges.
Golf
Take your pick of 45-walkable holes over three courses at the Golden Horseshoe Golf Club designed by Robert Trent Jones and his son Rees Jones.
I never miss browsing the goods in Prentis, Greenhow, and Tarpley’s, my favorite shops within the historic district. The Prentis Store showcases wares constructed using 18th-century techniques. Choose between handcrafted leather goods, iron hardware, tools, pottery, writing instruments, papers, ink, and seals.
The J. Greenhow General Store sells gifts, books, candy, historical items, toys, and trinkets. Their selection includes items imported from England for the colonists, like the delicate creamware dishes.
Tarpley’s, Thompson & Company, another fine shop, offers clothing, hats, and many of the above items.
Merchant’s Square
You will undoubtedly run into the area between the college and the historic car-free zone known as Merchants Square (official website). Hard to resist this retail village with over 40 modern-day shops and some fabulous restaurants, like the Blue Talon Bistro.
Be sure to check out the college bookstore or other stores selling souvenirs.
In the 18th century, illuminations — the firing of guns and lighting of fireworks — celebrated major events such as the birthday of a reigning sovereign, military victories, or a new colonial governor.
Williamsburg’s Grand Illumination began in 1935 with holiday candles in windows and fireworks. In the years that followed, the Grand Illumination became such a popular event that it expanded to three weekends.
Friday evenings introduced a new event, the Yule Log procession. It includes music from the Fifes and Drums, musket fire from Continental Army reenactors, and a visit from Father Christmas.
During a torch-lit march, the Yule Log progresses by wagon from the Capitol to Market Square. It then burns in a bonfire where guests gather to throw greenery sprigs into the fire and make a wish.
A grand display of fireworks is set off simultaneously rising above the Governor’s Palace and the Capitol on Saturday evenings.
Wreaths made from natural greenery with intricate designs of fruits, nuts, and pinecones decorate doorways and balconies. The homeowners and merchants go all out, hoping to win the annual local contest.
Having grown up in Northern Virginia, I am always excited to return to Williamsburg, one of my favorite places in the world. I look forward to dining in a colonial restaurant, shopping for handcrafted items, sitting in colorful gardens, and just soaking in the 18th-century ambiance.
Yes, Virginia is for lovers, and I do love Williamsburg.
How to get to Williamsburg, Virginia
Williamsburg lies 150 miles south of Washington, D.C., midway between Richmond and Virginia Beach on Interstate 64. Jamestown, Williamsburg, and Yorktown make up the three corners of Virginia’s Historic Triangle. A 23-mile Colonial Parkway connects the sites.
