Category Archives: Adventures

Mount Vernon: George Washington’s Home and Legacy

George and Martha Washington’s Mount Vernon overlooks in Potomac River in Virginia. Photo ©Bylandersea

As a child growing up in Arlington, Virginia, Mount Vernon was where my parents took out-of-town visitors. Family and friends wanted to see George Washington’s home, and we happily made the short drive along the Potomac River. I toured the mansion, wandered through the gardens and admired the sweeping river view many times over the years. I always loved the canopy beds and begged my parents for one at home. Later, I continued the tradition by bringing my own children to Mount Vernon.

Only much later did I realize how extraordinary the place really was.

As the United States marks 250 years since the adoption of the Declaration of Independence, Mount Vernon offers far more than a glimpse into the life of the nation’s first president. It reveals Washington as a farmer, businessman, husband, military leader and statesman whose decisions helped shape the young republic. It is difficult to imagine the birth and survival of the United States without him.

A Family Inheritance

The story of Mount Vernon began before George Washington was born.

The property had been in the Washington family since the 17th century, but George’s father, Augustine Washington, established a household at what was then called Little Hunting Creek Plantation and built the core of the present mansion in the 1730s. In 1738, the family moved to Ferry Farm, across the Rappahannock River from Fredericksburg, Virginia. (To read about Washington’s early years, click here.)

was just eleven when Augustine died in 1743. Little Hunting Creek passed to George’s older half-brother, Lawrence Washington, who renamed it Mount Vernon in honor of Admiral Edward Vernon. Lawrence had served under Vernon as an officer with Virginia’s provincial forces during the War of Jenkins’ Ear. The oddly named conflict was fought between Britain and Spain over trade and colonial power in the Americas.

When Lawrence died in 1752, George was twenty years old. Lawrence initially left Mount Vernon to his young daughter, Sarah, with his widow, Ann Fairfax Washington, holding a life interest in the property. After Sarah died, George leased Mount Vernon from Ann beginning in 1754. He did not become its outright owner until Ann’s death in 1761. During these years, he pursued careers as a soldier and planter while gradually assuming responsibility for the estate that would define the rest of his life.

In 1759, Washington married Martha Dandridge Custis, a wealthy widow with two surviving children. Their marriage became a warm and enduring partnership, while Martha’s considerable wealth strengthened Washington’s financial and social position. Her dower estate included land, investments and the labor of enslaved people, providing resources that helped Washington expand Mount Vernon into one of Virginia’s most prominent plantations.

Model of a young George Washington as he might have looked when working as a surveyor.

Building a Plantation

Washington expanded the house several times, transforming what began as a modest farmhouse into the elegant mansion visitors see today. Its distinctive piazza overlooking the Potomac remains one of the most recognizable views in America, and one of my favorites. (In my next story, I will explain how Mount Vernon was rescued from decline and specifically how that view was preserved for future generations.)

By the time of the Revolution, the estate had grown into a complex operation of five farms covering thousands of acres. Like many Virginia planters, Washington initially relied heavily on tobacco.

Mount Vernon depended upon the labor of enslaved men, women and children. In 1799, 317 enslaved people lived on Washington’s five farms. They cultivated crops, cared for livestock, prepared meals, maintained the mansion, practiced skilled trades and worked at the gristmill and distillery. Today, Mount Vernon interprets many of their individual stories throughout the estate, giving visitors a fuller understanding of plantation life and the profound contradictions of the founding era.

Washington’s views on slavery changed during his lifetime, but he did not free the people he owned while he was alive. In his will, he directed that the 123 enslaved people he owned be emancipated after Martha’s death. Martha freed them early, on January 1, 1801. Neither George nor Martha could legally free the 153 people held by the Custis estate, many of whom remained enslaved and were later separated from family members.

The Slave Memorial stands within Mount Vernon’s African American Burial Ground, where enslaved and free Black people were buried during the 18th and 19th centuries. Photo by Sarah Stierch, via Wikimedia Commons.

Over time, Washington recognized tobacco’s limitations and shifted toward diversified agriculture. He experimented with wheat, corn and other grains, and practiced crop rotation and soil conservation techniques that were advanced for his era. His experiments transformed Mount Vernon into one of Virginia’s most varied and closely managed agricultural operations. Visitors often remember Washington as a military hero, but he considered himself a farmer first.

My youngest daughter in the gardens, 2003. ©Copyright Bylandersea.

George and Martha

Statues of George and Martha with their grandchildren at Mount Vernon. ©Copyright Bylandersea

Although George and Martha never had children together, they raised Martha’s two surviving children and later helped care for several grandchildren. Mount Vernon remained their emotional center whenever public duty called Washington elsewhere.

During the Revolutionary War, Washington spent more than eight years away from Mount Vernon while commanding the Continental Army. Throughout the conflict, he wrote frequently to his managers, requesting detailed reports about crops, livestock and improvements to the estate.

Even while fighting for independence, his thoughts often returned home.

Washington’s Office at Mount Vernon Photo ©Bylandersea

One of America’s Largest Whiskey Distilleries

One of Mount Vernon’s lesser-known stories involves whiskey.

After two terms as president, Washington eagerly returned to Mount Vernon in 1797. At the suggestion of his Scottish farm manager, James Anderson, he invested in whiskey production and built a commercial distillery near his gristmill. Enslaved men, including Hanson, Peter, Nat, Daniel, James and Timothy, performed much of the hot, demanding work of producing the whiskey.

Washington’s standard whiskey used approximately 60 percent rye, 35 percent corn and 5 percent malted barley. It was distilled at least twice and generally sold unaged, which was customary at the time.

George Washington’s Premium Straight Rye Whiskey

In 1799, the distillery produced nearly 11,000 gallons of whiskey valued at approximately $7,500, making it one of the largest commercial distilleries in the United States and one of Mount Vernon’s most profitable enterprises.

What Visitors See Today

The original distillery operated for several years after Washington’s death, but eventually fell out of use and disappeared during the 19th century. The present building is a faithful reconstruction, completed on the original archaeological site and opened to visitors in 2007.

Inside, visitors see a working interpretation of the 18th-century operation, including copper pot stills, wooden mash tubs, a boiler, wood-fired furnaces and the distiller’s work area. Mount Vernon still produces limited batches of spirits there using historical methods. Grain is ground at the adjoining reconstructed, water-powered gristmill, fermented in wooden tubs and distilled in copper stills heated by wood fires.

The Distillery and Gristmill stand 2.7 miles from the main estate entrance. They operate seasonally, generally on weekends from April through October, so visitors should check the current schedule. Admission is included with a Mount Vernon grounds pass, and visitors can drive or, when available, take the seasonal shuttle.

Retirement at Last

Washington established two important precedents by voluntarily resigning his military commission in 1783 and stepping down after two presidential terms in 1797. He returned eagerly to Mount Vernon, although retirement did not mean idleness. Washington continued managing the estate, corresponding with political leaders, hosting a steady stream of visitors and overseeing ongoing improvements.

Welcome to Mount Vernon Photo ©Bylandersea

Visiting Mount Vernon Today

A visit to George and Martha Washington’s home is much more than a tour of a colonial mansion. Visitors begin in the Ford Orientation Center, where an introductory film provides context before they enter the historic estate.

The Donald W. Reynolds Museum and Education Center, originally opened in 2006, was extensively redesigned (at $20 million) for America’s 250th anniversary and reopened in June 2026. Its nine galleries combine original documents, rare artifacts, interactive exhibits and six immersive media experiences. The Revolutionary War Theater presents a 22-minute 4-D film, while the Hands-on-History Center offers replica objects and activities designed for children and their families.

Hands on activities for little ones visiting Mount Vernon. Photo ©Bylandersea

Much of the museum complex was built into the landscape, preserving the historic appearance of the estate rather than imposing a large modern building upon it.

Plan ahead because Mount Vernon can easily fill an entire day, although many visitors allow approximately three to four hours. In addition to touring the mansion, visitors can explore the gardens and outbuildings, visit Washington’s tomb and the Slave Memorial, walk through the working farm, and spend time in the Museum and Education Center. The reconstructed Distillery and Gristmill require a short drive or seasonal shuttle ride from the main estate. Mount Vernon also includes a restaurant, food court and extensive gift shop.

Washington’s Final Days

On December 14, 1799, George Washington died at Mount Vernon following a severe throat infection. The nation mourned the loss of its most revered leader.

Washington was buried on the estate he loved. Today, visitors can pay their respects at the tomb where George and Martha Washington rest.

We all know the familiar claim that “George Washington slept here.” As a child standing beside his tomb, I remember thinking, “George Washington really sleeps here.”

The Washington Tombs at Mount Vernon.

For me, Mount Vernon remains far more than a historic attraction. It is woven into my childhood memories and is likely where I first developed my love of colonial-era furnishings. It is also a place that grows richer and more complicated with every visit. Few destinations reveal George Washington more completely, both his remarkable accomplishments and the contradictions of the world in which he lived, than the home he cherished above all others.

The Famous View overlooking the Potomac River.

Coming next: Mount Vernon might not be standing today without the determination of the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association. In my next article, I’ll share how a group of visionary women rescued the neglected estate in the 1850s, raised the money to purchase it, and began the painstaking work of preservation and restoration. Their remarkable effort became one of America’s earliest and most successful historic preservation stories.

The Treaty of Paris: Winning the Peace That Created a Nation

Part of the ByLanderSea America 250: Road to Revolution Series

The War Was Won—But Peace Had Yet to Be Secured

The surrender of British General Charles Cornwallis at Yorktown on October 19, 1781, marked the decisive military victory of the American Revolution. For many, the war seemed over.

Surrender of Cornwallis By John Trumbull
– http://www.aoc.gov/cc/photo-gallery/ptgs_rotunda.cfm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1379717

It wasn’t.

Although the guns had fallen silent in Virginia, Great Britain had not yet recognized the independence of its former colonies. British troops still occupied New York City, Charleston, and Savannah, and no treaty had been signed. Winning the war on the battlefield was only the beginning. Now came the equally challenging task of winning the peace.

For nearly two years, diplomats worked across the Atlantic to transform military victory into an internationally recognized nation. (I think most of us forget this piece of history.)

Diplomacy in Paris

Peace negotiations began in Paris in the spring of 1782. Representing the United States were four remarkable men: Benjamin Franklin, already admired throughout France for his scientific achievements and diplomatic skill; John Adams of Massachusetts; John Jay of New York; and later Henry Laurens of South Carolina.

Benjamin West, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons Unfinished Treaty of Paris: It shows, from left, John Jay, John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, Henry Laurens, and William Temple Franklin; the British refused to pose.

Franklin had spent years cultivating France’s friendship, securing the financial aid, military assistance, and naval support that proved essential to victory at Yorktown. Now he faced an equally difficult assignment—helping negotiate favorable terms for the new nation.

The negotiations were far from simple. Although France had been America’s indispensable ally during the war, French interests did not always align perfectly with those of the United States. John Jay became convinced the Americans would secure better terms by negotiating directly with Britain. John Adams agreed. Franklin, recognizing the importance of maintaining unity among the American commissioners, eventually supported the decision. The negotiations were delicate, sometimes tense, but ultimately successful.

A Remarkably Favorable Peace

On September 3, 1783, representatives of the United States and Great Britain signed the Treaty of Paris. Its terms exceeded nearly everyone’s expectations.

Great Britain formally recognized the independence of the United States. The new nation gained territory stretching from the Atlantic Ocean west to the Mississippi River and from Canada south to Spanish Florida. Americans retained valuable fishing rights off Newfoundland and agreed that pre-war debts would be honored. The treaty also recommended restitution for Loyalists whose property had been confiscated during the war, although enforcement varied from state to state.

Historians have often described the agreement as one of the most favorable peace treaties ever granted to a victorious former colony. The United States emerged not only independent but with abundant land and extraordinary opportunities for growth.

Yorktown had won the war. Paris secured the peace.

Following the Story Today

One of the pleasures of writing this Road to Revolution series has been visiting many of the places where history unfolded. You can see the actual document at the National Archives in Washington, D.C.

Although the treaty bears the name “Treaty of Paris,” surprisingly little marks the exact site where negotiations took place. The American commissioners met at the Hôtel d’York on Rue Jacob, where the building still stands as a private residence. During my upcoming visit to Paris, I hope to stand outside that historic address and imagine Franklin, Adams, and Jay negotiating the future of a new nation.

Peacefield in Quincy, Massachusetts, as I saw it in July 2025. Photo ©Bylandersea

Last summer, I visited the Adams National Historical Park in Quincy, Massachusetts, where John and Abigail Adams eventually retired after decades of public service. Their beloved home, Peacefield, reflected the quieter life Adams longed for after years spent helping build a nation through both war and diplomacy. Walking through its rooms, it was easy to forget that this peaceful gentleman had once helped negotiate one of the most significant treaties in American history.

The library at Peacefield, the historic home of John Adams and his family in Quincy, Massachusetts, was built in 1870 (after his death) at the request of his son, Charles Francis Adams. The Stone Library houses thousands of volumes collected by generations of the Adams family—a remarkable reflection of one of America’s most influential political and intellectual dynasties.

History has a way of connecting places separated by hundreds of miles. I love that.

Did You Know?

Although the Treaty of Paris was signed on September 3, 1783, British troops did not evacuate New York City until November 25, 1783. Known today as Evacuation Day, the British departure marked the final withdrawal of British forces from the United States.

Looking Ahead

The Treaty of Paris formally ended the Revolutionary War and secured America’s independence. Yet one final chapter remained before the Revolution truly came to a close.

George Washington had led the Continental Army through eight long years of war. Like John Adams, he desired nothing more than to return home and resume the quiet life he had left behind. Many expected him to remain at the head of the army—or even seize political power. Instead, he performed an act that astonished the world.

He voluntarily resigned his commission, surrendered his military authority to Congress, and returned to Mount Vernon. His greatest victory did not come on the battlefield. It would come in walking away from power.

Mount Vernon, the home of George and Martha Washington in Alexandria, Virginia. Photo ©Bylandersea

In my next post,  I will take you on a tour of George and Martha Washington’s home, Mount Vernon in Alexandria, Virginia. It holds many memories as I grew up near there and have visited many times. 

Zion National Park: Beneath the Towering Cliffs

After flying into Las Vegas, I set out on a road trip to two of Utah’s most celebrated national parks—Zion and Bryce Canyon. Both had long been on my travel wish list, so I was excited to begin exploring some unforgettable landscapes.

Park entrance sign in Springdale, Utah. Photo ©Bylandersea

Established in 1919 as Utah’s first national park, Zion is a place of dramatic contrasts. Massive sandstone cliffs rise in layered shades of cream, pink, and rust, while the Virgin River threads its way through the narrow canyon below. Zion doesn’t gradually reveal itself. It surrounds you, and honestly made me gasp.

Getting there is straightforward. Most visitors fly into Harry Reid International Airport in Las Vegas, then drive approximately three hours northeast. You briefly pass through Arizona before reaching Springdale, Utah, at the park’s main entrance. The drive sets the tone as open desert gradually gives way to sculpted red-rock formations.

However, rather than driving directly from Las Vegas, I couldn’t resist spending a few hours enjoying Vegas casinos and attractions, then stopping in St. George, Utah. The late afternoon still permitted time to explore Snow Canyon State Park before an overnight stay. The next morning I toured a little of the historic downtown before continuing to Zion.

Snow Canyon State Park, St. George, Utah. Photo ©Bylandersea

Along the way, I also stopped in the lesser-visited Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park. Many travelers bypass this northwestern corner, yet its soaring red cliffs, quieter trails and sweeping overlooks provide a very different introduction to the park. Even better, much of Kolob Canyons can be explored by car, with short walks leading to panoramic viewpoints.

View of Kolob Canyon, a section of Zion National Park. Photo ©Bylandersea

Entering Zion Canyon

Zion’s popularity has made transportation planning an essential part of any visit. During shuttle season, private vehicles are not permitted on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. Instead, a free park shuttle carries visitors from the entrance and visitor center to Zion Lodge, major trailheads, and the Temple of Sinawava at the end of the canyon. The system is easy to navigate, although waits can exceed an hour during the busiest periods.

The dramatic scenic view as I was driving toward Zion Lodge on arrival. Viedo ©Bylandersea


Guests staying at Zion Lodge enjoy one significant advantage, and in my opinion, it justifies the added expense. Overnight guests receive a permit allowing them to drive as far as the lodge and park in designated guest spaces. From there, they can board the shuttle or walk to many of the park’s most popular trails.

Zion Lodge, dwarfed by the towering cliffs, and the main shuttle stop.


I stayed two nights in one of the lodge’s cozy cabins tucked beneath the soaring cliffs, just a short walk from the main lodge and its restaurants. Every time I stepped outside, I felt dwarfed by the immense canyon walls towering overhead. The setting made Zion feel less like a park I was visiting and more like a landscape I was temporarily living within. Best of all, once the day-trippers depart, the canyon becomes noticeably quieter, a privilege lodge guests come to appreciate.

The Lodge’s Cabin are the place to stay. Reserve in advance. Photo ©Bylandersea


Reservations for Zion Lodge should be made well in advance, especially during spring, summer, and fall.

Lower Emerald Pool Trail

One of Zion’s most accessible hikes begins across from the lodge. The Lower Emerald Pool Trail follows a mostly paved path beneath cottonwood trees toward a shaded alcove where water spills over the sandstone ledge above.

Into the Heart of Zion follows the gentle course of the Virgin River as it winds beneath the soaring sandstone cliffs of Zion National Park.. Photographed in Zion National Park, Utah ©Bylandersea

The waterfall varies dramatically with the season. At times it is little more than a delicate curtain of droplets; after rain or snowmelt, it becomes far more impressive. Even when the flow is modest, the walk offers a pleasant introduction to the canyon’s changing vegetation and geology.

Riverside Walk and The Narrows

At the final shuttle stop, the Riverside Walk follows the Virgin River beneath increasingly narrow canyon walls. The mostly paved trail provides shade, river views and a chance to experience Zion’s scale without tackling a strenuous climb.

Cliffs at the end of the shuttle trail before entering the Narrows. Photo Bylandersea

Where the maintained trail ends, The Narrows begins. Here, the Virgin River becomes the trail itself. Hikers wade upstream through cool water while sheer canyon walls rise on both sides. Springdale outfitters rent specialized shoes, neoprene socks and walking sticks, all of which make navigating the uneven riverbed safer and more comfortable.

Water depth, temperature and the danger of flash flooding can change quickly, so conditions should always be checked before entering.

Angels Landing

Many visitors arrive determined to hike Angels Landing, Zion’s most famous—and most intimidating trail.

The final section follows a narrow sandstone ridge with steep drop-offs on either side. Chains bolted into the rock help hikers negotiate the most exposed areas. Permits (issued through a lottery) are required for the chained section, and the hike is best suited to experienced hikers who are comfortable with heights. Don’t underestimate this one.

I was content to admire Angels Landing from below.

That may be one difference between Zion and Bryce for me. Bryce invited me to wander among its hoodoos. Zion often made me stop, look upward and wonder how anyone managed to climb those walls.

Canyon Overlook at Sunrise

The hike I most anticipated was the Canyon Overlook Trail near the east entrance.

I began before sunrise, following the beam of my headlamp along the rocky, uneven path. In darkness, every exposed edge felt more dramatic, and I questioned my decision more than once. The one-mile round-trip trail includes long drop-offs, though most are protected by railings. Parking near the trailhead is extremely limited; go early.

The Overlook trail can be intimidating, especially in the dark. Photo ©Bylander taken on my return in the daylight!

 

When I finally reached the overlook area, the sunrise proved less spectacular than I had hoped. The sky never erupted into color. Instead, pale morning light slowly entered the canyon, revealing layer after layer of stone. But, the return hike in daylight seemed far less frightening.

Not the sunrise I had hoped for, but the view is unforgettable and worth the effort. Photo ©Bylandersea
My last photo before returning back down the trail. Photo ©Bylandersea

The photographs may not show the sunrise I imagined, but the experience remains one of my strongest memories of Zion. Sometimes the story behind a photo matters more than the image itself.

Experiencing Zion Beyond the Trails

Not every memorable experience at Zion requires a strenuous hike. Visitors can rent e-bikes, take horseback rides, attend ranger programs, watch climbers inch their way up seemingly impossible rock faces or simply sit beside the Virgin River beneath the cottonwood trees.

Zion is not known for wildlife, but I did see a wild turkey. Photo ©Bylandersea

On a misty day, I joined an open-air tram tour that provided historical and geological background while allowing me to keep enjoying the scenery. With clouds drifting between the cliffs, Zion took on a softer and more mysterious appearance.

After dark, the park reveals another side. Zion’s protected night skies make stargazing especially rewarding once the canyon walls disappear into shadow and thousands of stars emerge overhead. 

Crowds disappear in the evening and the lodge (above) is a perfect spot for dinner. Photo ©Bylandersea

Springdale offers numerous hotels, restaurants and outfitters just outside the park entrance, making it a convenient base for those not staying inside the park. Visitors should still prepare for crowds, limited parking and unreliable cell service. Shuttle lines form early, especially during holidays and peak seasons. 

This sticker made me laugh as getting on WiFi at Zion is darn near impossible. Photo ©Bylandersea

Zion did not charm me in quite the same way as Bryce Canyon. Bryce felt whimsical and otherworldly; Zion felt immense, powerful and occasionally intimidating.

Perhaps that is Zion’s appeal.

Some travelers come to conquer Angels Landing or wade deep into The Narrows. Others choose gentler trails, photograph reflected cliffs or sit quietly beside the Virgin River. Zion accommodates them all, but it asks each visitor to look upward, and to feel very small beneath the stone.

The outdoor terrace at the Zion Lodge is ideal for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Photo ©Bylandersea

Enjoyed this story? My fine art photograph, Into the Heart of Zion, is available as a print and other wall art on Fine Art America. Link here: https://pixels.com/featured/in-the-heart-of-zion-national-park-utah-debi-lander.html

Into the Heart of Zion Photo ©Bylandersea