Category Archives: Food Tales

Busy chefs cooking at the Seafront Pasta Bar in Naples, Italy.

Naples, Italy Restaurant Review: Seafront Pasta Bar

As a travel writer, I hope my readers trust the destinations, hotels, restaurants, and tours I recommend. I stand by my word, not praising a site when it doesn’t deserve a compliment. Recently, I was headed to Naples and asked a fellow travel writer. Gina Di Meo, for some advice. Gina is a native, a Neapolitan, though she no longer lives there.

Side streets in Naples are narrow and colorful.
A typical side street in historic Naples, narrow and colorful.

Gina recommended the Seafront Pasta Bar for dinner. She even helped me get reservations, which, by the way, are needed. Though the name is nothing special, this is not just any pasta restaurant. It ranks as one of the best meals I have ever had. No wonder the establishment earned a spot on the Michelin Recommended list for the city.

A view of the Seafront Pasta Bar Restaurant.
The Seafront Pasta Bar before dinner time!

FYI: The MICHELIN Guide provides curated selections of the best dining experiences in a given area, covering more restaurants than only the starred establishments. While inclusion alone is a pretty big deal in demonstrating quality cooking, the guides help steer travellers and locals alike to recommended restaurants that suit their personal tastes, budgets and preferences when exploring a city. 

I found the Seafront Pasta Bar located across from Castle Nuovo, near the waterfront harbor, but not exactly overlooking it. Diners mainly sit upstairs, around a sushi-style counter, watching the chefs work directly in front of them. There are also a few tables to the side of the bar without the cooktop view. The eatery uses Di Martino pasta in all forms from appetizers to desserts.

Two happy chefs working at the Seafront Pasta Bar posed for me!


It’s a great place to pick up kitchen techniques. However, the other advantage of sitting by the action is the delicious aromas wafting from their saucepans.

An attentive chef at the Seafront Pasta Bar in Naplea.
A chef watches the pasta while it cooks at the Seafront Pasta Bar in Naples. .

I chose the three-course wine-paired tasting menu, which is really four courses if you count dessert. The price is a reasonable sum of 65 euros. (It’s a bargain for Americans.) Each dish was painstakingly prepared and beautifully plated on carefully chosen dinnerware and a different silver place setting for each course. Of course, each was paired with a wonderful glass of wine.

Artfully arranged breadsticks await diners at the Seafront Pasta Bar.
An arrangement of breadsticks begins the meal at the Seafront Pasta Bar.

The meal began with a display of artfully arranged breadsticks and dipping oil, followed by a seafood amuse-bouche. I’m not positive, but I think it was langoustine in a sauce covered by a thin, flaky crisp. The starter wine was Colle Lepre by Porto de Mola.

The amuse-bouche at the Seafront Pasta Bar.
The amuse-bouche naturally featured seafood.

Linguini with garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and anchovies “colatura” from Cetara arrived next. I later found out that colatura is a sauce made only with anchovies and salt from the nearby town on the Amalfi Coast. While I’m not wild about anchovies, I loved this linguine and ate every bite. Al dente perfection!

The linguini with garlic, olive oil, and anchovies.

The second entrée was hand-broken Ziti Genovese style with ‘ramata’ onion from Montorio (northern Italy) and a prime beef cut. The sauce is prepared by sautéing beef with onions and slowly cooking for two to ten hours. This scrumptious dish definitely had beef flavoring throughout.

Ziti Genovese style, the second course.
Ziti Genovese style at the Seafront Pasta Bar, Naples.

La Devozione is spaghetti with tomato sauce –an iconic Neapolitan recipe that dates back to the early 1800s and has been a symbol of Italian cuisine ever since. The old traditional tomato sauce is made with just three ingredients: tomatoes, olive oil, and garlic.

Spaghetti with tomato sauce, a Neapolitan classic.
Yummy spaghetti with tomato sauce, a Neapolitan classic recipe.

Neopolitan treats were the dessert, but I was so full that I took them home. The famous sfogliatella is beloved as a snack, breakfast, and sometimes even dessert. What is it? In Naples, there are two main variants of sfogliatella: sfogliatella riccia and sfogliatella frolla. Puffy golden pastry shaped like a rounded triangle or clamshell that enfold the custardy cheese filling. It derives its name from una sfogli—a leaf referencing the dozens of tiny pastry leaves (or sheets).
I loved the contrast of crisp pastry and cool, soft filling.

An array of desserts that I ate the next day for breakfast.

If you visit Naples, I highly recommend a meal at the Seafront Pasta Bar.

Cooking pasta at the Seafront Pasta Bar.
Busy chefs cook many forms of pasta each night.
Linzer Cookies ready for Christmas.

Linzer Cookies Earn Rave Reviews

The Linzer torte is one of the oldest tortes in the world, found in an Austrian abbey in the early 1700s. (A torte is defined as a cake made with many eggs and often grated nuts.) Immigrants brought the famous cake  to the US from Linz, Austria, around the 1850s. From there, Linzer cookies arose, smaller sandwich style versions with a lighter dough. But the Linzer torte is still a popular holiday treat in neighboring Germany, Hungary, Italy, and Switzerland.

Linzer Torte on a cake stand.
From Wikimedia Commons
Linzer Torte @ Wikimedia Commons

My recipe may not date back to the nineteenth century, but I still have a recipe card that shows I wrote it in 1974. Tried and true it is!

The name on the recipe card reads Ischl (pronounced “eesh uhl”) Tartlets which I discovered are the same as linzer cookies, however the name comes from the Austrian spa town of Bad Ischl. 

A recipe card from 1972 for Ischl Tartlets.
My Recipe Card from 1974

These luscious treats, made from a cream cheese dough and filled with raspberry jam, may be my favorite cookies. But I only make them once a year because they take a lot of work. Still,  the taste is worth the effort. 

Follow the recipe in two stages. Prepare the nutty-flavored dough and let it chill for about 4 hours, or better yet, overnight. Later, roll out the dough and cut out the shapes with cookie cutters. Keep count of how many bottom and top cookies you have, or you’ll lack matching pairs. I use the Wilton Linzer Cookie Set with interchangeable cut-outs available from Amazon.

Top and Bottom of Linzer Cookies before adding jam and sandwiching together.
Baked cookies before assembly.

Linzer cookies don’t take long to bake, but let them sit on the cookie sheet for 2 extra minutes before transferring to the cooling rack. If you want to make especially beautiful cookies, sprinkle powdered sugar on the top cookies before you place each on the jam-filled bottom layer. I did not do this this year, so I must remind myself of that hint next year. 

Be careful if you stack the cookies for storage – you don’t want them to lose the pretty jam-filled cut-out designs.  

Decorative Linzer Cookies ready for Christmas.
Linzer Cookies ready for Christmas

LINZER COOKIE RECIPE

Recipe from the Debi Lander Collection

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 ¾ Cups sifted all-purpose flour  
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 cup butter
  • 1 3 oz. package cream cheese
  • 1 Cup Sugar        
  • 1 egg
  • ½ Cup almonds, ground
  • ! Tablespoon grated lemon zest
  • 1 12 oz. jar raspberry preserves
  • !0x Confectioner’s Sugar (Powdered Sugar)
Linzer Cookies on a red platter. Copyright Debi Lander
Luscious Jam Filled Linzer Cookies

DIRECTIONS

  • 1.Sift flour and baking powder in a small bowl and set aside
  • 2. Beat butter, cream cheese, sugar, and egg in a large bowl until light and fluffy.
  • 3. Add flour mixture and blend. Stir in ground almonds and lemon rind. 
  • 4. Shape into two balls, cover, and chill for 4 hours or overnight. 
  • 5. Roll out half of the dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut into circles and circles with cut-out designs or holes. Place on ungreased cookie sheets or parchment paper.
  • 6. Bake at 350 degrees for 8 minutes. Let stand on the cookie sheet for 1-2 minutes more. Transfer and cool thoroughly on a rack. 
  • 7. Heat preserves. Spread solid cookies to the edge. Top cut-out cookies with a sprinkling of powdered sugar and place on top of the jam layer. 
  • 8. Store between wax paper in an airtight tin. 

Why Are Partridgeberry Pies in Newfoundland?

The pie-making class.
Students with their pies.

It was early July when I flew into Gander, Newfoundland, a small but famous airport that became home to 38 jumbo jets on 9/11. It’s an unassuming place with a lot of history.  

The next morning, when sitting at breakfast, I noticed the menu featured many dishes with partridgeberries. I could order partridgeberry muffins, bread, pancakes, waffles, pies, or tarts. One could slather toast with partridgeberry jams and jellies. 

What are Partridgeberries?

Partridgeberries are small red berries that grow abundantly in the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador. I’d say they are a not-too-sweet cross between cranberries and blueberries. Scientifically a member of the Madder Family (Rubiaceae), partridgeberries are deeply rooted in the culture and cuisine of Newfoundland.

Partridgeberries
Wild growing Partridgeberres

Having never heard of them, I was curious and began researching. I discovered that partridgeberries are also called mountain cranberries, cowberries, or lingonberries- at least, I knew the latter. They are indigenous to Newfoundland, as well as Scandinavia, and grow wild on small evergreen shrubs. Partridgeberries thrive in the cool and acidic soils of the region.

The fruit has a distinctive tart flavor that sets them apart from other berries. Their tartness makes them an excellent addition to sweet treats and savory meals, an accompaniment to dishes like moose and rabbit.

Continue reading Why Are Partridgeberry Pies in Newfoundland?