Perched high on dramatic cliffs, hillside villages cascade down to the shimmering sea, while rugged roads cling to the Amalfi Coast‘s breathtaking curves. This iconic 30-mile stretch, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, is celebrated as one of the world’s most captivating destinations, drawing countless visitors each year. Yet, despite the crowds and the tales of white-knuckle drives, I was eager to explore this legendary coast by land and sea, immersing myself in its stunning scenery from every angle.
Amalfi Coast by Sea
Luck was in my favor as my tour of Naples, Pompeii, and the Amalfi Coast from Edible Destinations included a day trip by boat. My small group left the hotel early, drove just five minutes away, and boarded a tourist ferry at Porto Torre del Greco.
Our first stop came about an hour and a quarter later, Sorrento. We did not disembark here; the boat merely picked up a few more travelers. Since the sunlight was still low in the sky, the high cliffs of Sorrento were not illuminated. They looked drab and muddy, as does my photo. However, the zig-zag road that descended from the top of the town to sea level caught my eye.
Our boat continued on, turning around the tip of the coast and heading toward Positano. But, again, we did not stop. We would visit Positano on the way back.
During the cruise, the guide pointed out the small towns and some of the imposing villas or posh resorts along the shore. I imagined how fabulous a stay at one of those hotels would be.
We finally arrived at Amalfi‘s harbor, which was bustling with tourists. Travel buddy Judy and I headed toward the Cathedral, officially Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea, where we found the public toilets. But, the colorful and imposing church stopped me in my tracks. WOW!
Photo Credit: Debi Lander
St. Andrew’s Cathedral rests upon a steep incline with a grand staircase of 62 stone steps leading to an Arabic-style portico. The upper façade features pointed arches filled with intricate mosaics set against black and white striped marble– very Byzantine. Upon reaching the top of the stairs (slightly out of breath), I turned around to rest and appreciate the sweeping views of the plaza (Piazza del Duomo) and seafront below.
I bought a ticket and entered the appropriately named Cloister of Paradise (Chiostro del Paradiso). Built in 1268 (yes, that far back) to house the tombs of Amalfi’s wealthy citizens, it boasts a serene garden and richly decorated columned walkways. I saw the church’s 11th-century beginnings and some sections remaining from incredible medieval frescoes.
To the right of the Cathedral, the bell tower stands tall, built in the 12th and 13th centuries. The tower is adorned with colorful majolica tiles and features a series of arched windows that add to the building’s ornate appearance.
Entering an open door, I was drawn to an exhibit of reliquary heads. They were formerly used to house a sacred relic, likely a fragment of bone or a piece of a saint’s body, and were venerated by the faithful. I’ve seen many reliquaries before but never heads. I also liked the polychrome carved wooden statues of the Virgin.
The Cathedral’s architecture blends different styles, including Romanesque, Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque, since Amalfi’s maritime history connects it with the Byzantine Empire and the Arab world.
One of the most significant events in the Cathedral’s history was the arrival of the apostle Saint Andrew’s relics in 1208. They came from Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) during the Fourth Crusade. Saint Andrew became the patron saint of Amalfi, and his relics are housed in the Cathedral’s crypt, making it an important pilgrimage site.
I was headed down to the crypt, not expecting more than perhaps a marble tomb. But below the main altar, I discovered a magnificently decorated ceiling, columns, walls, and the relics of the Apostle. Signage reminded me that St. Andrew was the older brother to St. Peter.
I was overwhelmed and found the artistry breathtaking. A calm spirit seemed to dwell within the space. While outside roamed the maddening crowd, down here I was bathed in serenity.
I continued, finding more interesting chapels, and eventually exited on the portico. If I were a guide on the boat cruise, I would have strongly urged everyone to tour the Cathedral and not miss its splendid beauty. Sadly, he did not.
Judy and I were hungry by this time, but the central plaza was jammed. We took a narrow pathway for about a block, and there, we found another plaza and outdoor restaurants.
Not surprisingly, many shops we passed displayed and sold similar merchandise. Lemons were emblazoned on items the way Disney prints the Mickey logo on everything. You could buy lemon-decorated vases, picture frames, plates, cups, aprons, tee shirts, and dresses. Limoncello, a liqueur made from lemons, is locally produced and very popular. I bought a bottle.
We would have loved to have toured the Paper Museum but needed more time. One of the hardest things about being on a group tour is the limits it puts on your time. I loved seeing the Cathedral and the layout of the town, but I felt under time constraints and surrounded by many tourists, which, of course, included me. I kept thinking, “This is May; you’re fine, now just imagine bigger crowds and more heat during the summer.”
Back on the boat, we left Amalfi and headed to Positano. We soon landed in the marina next to Spiaggia Grande, the main beach in Positano. This stretch of pebbly shoreline is a place to sunbathe, but I came to see the town’s pastel-colored houses clinging to the cliff. The striking dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta stands out, covered in majolica tiles like Amalfi’s.
To get to the Cathedral, we walked down a vine-terraced walkway and up a number of stairs. However, it was hot, and the thought of a cold and tangy gelato appealed to me. We continued on and found some; however, finding a place to sit was nearly impossible.
Afterward, we made our way back to the church, passing all the gift shops featuring Positano’s famous sandals and linen clothing—and, of course, lemon-themed merchandise. I must say that Amalfi and Positano seemed similar in many ways.
We entered the sanctuary and noticed preparations for a wedding. Out of the sun and with a place to sit, we watched for a while and basked in the golden glow of the high altar.
When we went outside, we found the bridesmaids in a tizzy. But the bride seemed calm, just resting on a chair near a doorway. It was an odd picture, the peaceful bride among gawking tourists, but I suppose that is what happens when you wed in a historic church in a very tourist-centric town.
We strolled the streets for a bit, bought a magnet, and checked out the rocky beach. Time was brief and the afternoon sunshine, though lovely, made it hot. We returned to the boat and waited for our ride back.
We again paused briefly in Sorrento and found it more alive and colorful.
We passed by Mt. Vesuvius and noticed the vineyards we had visited the day before. You can’t see much of the Pompeii city ruins from the water. Overall, the boat trip made a delightful day, the views spectacular, and most memorable.
The Driving Tour of the Amalfi Coast
I planned to stay a few days beyond my tour to explore more of Naples, a city often overlooked but one that deserves exploration. I’d also signed up for an 8-hour Amalfi Coast Tour from The Tour Guy. The day would include stops in Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. This time, I would be in a van driving along the Amalfi Coast instead of in a boat.
In the morning, Judy and I followed the instructions to meet our guide at the Municipal Plaza, near the Garibaldi statue. It seems that all the day tours start here, so various guides walk around with signs naming their tours. Finding our guide proved a bit difficult because no signs read “The Tour Guy,” but we eventually found a van and driver expecting us. Judy and I again were off.
We passed Ercalono, where my Edible Destinations Tour was based, and headed toward Sorrento. Our guide said we would stop at a limoncello factory, but the traffic was too congested, and the driver couldn’t maneuver to a parking spot. I hadn’t known about this stop, but once announced, I wished we had seen the place. Undaunted, we proceeded on.
The road contained numerous switchbacks, plunging drops to the sea, tunnels, and magnificent views of tiny inlets, harbors, islands, and villages. I was torn between trying to take photos out the window and sitting back and absorbing the scenery. At no time did I feel scared or think we were too close to the edge. Passing other vans called for skilled driving, but these tourist bus drivers make the run many days a week. I was far more comfortable with a professional driver than the thought of ever attempting to drive.
We stopped at an overlook above Positano, and everyone got out. I loved looking down to where I had been earlier and seeing the city from this different perspective. We browsed a few pop-up shops around, and I purchased some dried herbs to make bruschetta. We did not stop in the downtown city of Positano.
Our next stop was Amalfi. Judy and I felt good knowing the lay of the land, so to speak, and decided to skip a return visit inside the Cathedral. I still was delighted to see the colorful exterior again. We wandered the streets, finding a fantastic display of presepi—tiny decorative figures, traditionally the nativity, made in the Naples area. We enjoyed our lunch, but this driving tour did not give us as much time in Amalfi as the boat tour, so again, we missed the Paper Museum.
I investigated buying some hand-painted tiles but decided they were too heavy to take home on the plane and too costly to ship. Now, I wish I’d bought them.
We returned to the van and headed to Ravello, a new village to discover. We passed many lemon trees along the side of the road, and thick olive groves. Then we came to vineyards and parked alongside of the road. We followed our guide uphill and into the lovely little hamlet. I immediately fell in love with Ravello, likely because it was far less crowded and much greener.
I wanted to stay here and explore but alas we did as much as we could, finding secret gardens, ancient churches, and wonderful walkways. We enjoyed gelato and taking in the friendly atmosphere. If I ever get to return for a stay somewhere along the Amalfi Coast, I think I would pick Ravello.
We left Ravello and traveled through more dramatic coastline until we came to the outskirts of Naples. For me, the highlight of the van tour was Ravello.
Boat or Van
I think it’s a toss up between choosing a boat or van tour. Of course, the view from the water and the view from the road are different. But, both are stunning. Each day trip gives you the opportunity to take in a few cities, yet you must keep to a tight schedule. If bad weather is in the forecast, I’d choose the drive over the sea. Otherwise, take your pick and enjoy. I sure did.
