After crossing the border from Romania into Ruse (Rousse), Bulgaria, I said goodbye to my Romanian guide and switched cars to meet my new Bulgarian driver/guide. Bulgaria often flies under the radar, yet it’s a fascinating country at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. It’s also an ideal destination for avoiding tourist crowds and staying on budget.

My travel buddy Ellen and I were soon riding into the countryside. Our guide explained that we were headed for a hidden marvel tucked in a quiet valley in northeastern Bulgaria—the Rusenski Lom River Valley. Our destination? The Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. He promised we’d see exquisite medieval frescoes carved into the walls and cliffs. They stand as artistic treasures that offer a rare glimpse into Bulgaria’s spiritual and cultural past.