Early Christian Ceiling mosaic of Jesus in Necropolis masoleum
Day 7- Necropolis and St. Peter’s Tomb
We left Langdon and Vittoria racing along the pasetto (corridor) from Castle Sant’Angelo to St Peter’s Basilica. Our story now picks up speed, makes confusing turns and exposes a few devilish surprises, as it nears the climax.
I won’t try to summarize or give away the plot; you simply must read the book or go to the movie. But, let’s just say, both versions lead to our next site. We venture deep below the Vatican– to the Necropolis .
Doorway into ancient masoleum under the Vatican
Most visitors to Rome, and many residents, have no knowledge of the hidden city lying two stories below the main altar. Ancient mausoleums were not uncovered until 1939 when Pope Pius XII ordered a secret archeological dig. He hoped to find St. Peter’s grave . The result of their discoveries was not publicly announced until decades later.
I learned of the Vatican Scavi (necropolis) tour while researching my 2008 trip to Italy, and applied for tickets. Only 150-200 people per day are permitted into the tombs. Tickets costs just ten euro, but must be requested months ahead.
The morning I arrived at St Peters, I stopped a priest to ask for directions to the meeting point. I showed him my confirmation letter and he looked at me, smiled; then said, “You are blessed.”
And I was. To stand in the most sacred space in Rome is incredibly powerful.
I wrote a descriptive article about the Scavi tour, recently published by Bootsnall.com. I hope you will use this link to read the details of the search for St. Peter’s tomb .
Our virtual tour continues to follow the path of the Illuminati. We find Professor Langdon charging down narrow passageways in Castle Sant’Angelo, searching for Vittoria. The timeless structure and bridge leading to its doors have rested on the banks of the Tiber River since 139 AD.
The ancient cement exterior, a round shape surrounded by high walls, stands stark and imposing, hardly a castle in the traditional sense. Compared to an Italian villa or luxuriant St. Peter’s Basilica, Castle Sant’Angelo looks primitive and unfinished.
Originally constructed as Emperor Hadrian ‘s tomb, the mausoleum’s intended function changed almost as often as the popes. Over two millennia the site served as a fortress, prison, papal refuge and palace, military barracks, museum and …in Angels & Demons–the Church of Illumination and secret lair of the evil Hassassin.
Statue of Archangel Michael atop Castle Sant'Angelo
When the plague struck Rome in 590 AD, Pope Gregory the Great is said to have seen an apparition of an angel, Michael, sheathing his sword above the castle. He believed this meant the end of the disease for his city. In remembrance, a statue of Archangel St. Michael was erected high up on the terrace and the name Hadrian’s Tomb was changed to “Castle of the Holy Angel- Castle Sant’Angelo.”
The passetto or passageway connecting to the Vatican
In 1277 Pope Nicholas II ordered the building of massive circular walls and the famous 2,000 foot-long corridor connecting to the Vatican. The first floor includes a winding ramp about 400 feet long. Between the 10th and 14th centuries this defensive stronghold remained the only fortress in Rome. Powerful families fought to control it.
Many rooms within the fortress were turned into small cells for political prisoners, some more like torture chambers. The courtyards were used for executions by decapitation and the heads of the condemned then hung along the bridge.
The popes demanded ownership of the castle as one of the conditions for their return from Avignon. They left France for Rome and regained the strategic property, which they hold to this day.
During the Renaissance, Popes Nicolas V and Alexander VI modernized the defensive position with four iron bastions. A moat was added and the corridor or “passetto” was fortified. These timely improvements provided a refuge during the Sack of Rome in 1527.
Papal apartment in Castle Sant'Angelo
Plush Papal apartments were built during the mid 1500’s, seen from afar as the brick rectangular addition on top. The lavish rooms were frescoed and furnished with priceless collections. A treasury room in the centre was created to store the Vatican’s wealth. Space was provided for enormous reserves of food, in the event of an attack. There were wineskins set in the walls, huge water tanks, granaries and even a mill.
Castle Sant'Angelo at first light
A fifth bastion was added in 1560, but is now a garden. During the 17th century Bernini’s workshop was commissioned to sculpt angels for the bridge, thus the crossing became known as the Bridge of Angels.
In 1752 a bronze statue of Archangel Michael, added to the summit, replaced a former one. His sword points downward toward the main entrance, which Dan Brown uses to mean the hidden Church of Illumination.
The castle’s exterior then remained unchanged until restraining walls were added along the Tiber and external arches were evened with the three central ones.
In 1870 when Rome became the capital of the new state of Italy, alterations were made for military barracks. Today the icon stands open to the public as the National Museum of Castle Sant’Angelo. Restoration and preservation of the historic structure is ongoing.
If you’re in Rome and want to fully appreciate the famous site, first stroll along the opposite side of the river. The best photo op is sunset, but I found sunrise very dramatic. And, best of all, the view of the bridge without tourists creates a mystical scene.
Detail of the angel statue on the Bridge of Angels in Rome
Cross the Bridge of Angels admiring the detail and uniqueness of each statue. Then, enter the castle to tour and climb up five levels. You’ll find courtyards, cannonballs, corridors and cells. The panoramic view from the highest terrace is worth the price of admission.
And don’t forget to look up to see beloved Archangel Michael guarding the Eternal City, as well as leading the way to the next chapter in Angels & Demons…
Lander Family overlooks Rome from the open courtyard atop Castle Sant'Angelo
We continue following the path of the Illuminati as our story wends through Rome. Vittoria has been kidnapped and Professor Langdon struggles on his own. He desperately tries to connect the series of clues: earth, wind, fire and water. Using his knowledge of symbology, he heads toward Piazza Navona. He suspects Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or the Fountain of Four Rivers is the source of the “water” clue.
The massive fountain sits in the middle of Piazza Navona, one of Rome’s most famous squares. The open space is actually long and oval shaped, rather than four-sided, because it was built over emperor Domitian’s ancient stadium. The name derived from “inagone” meaning the place of combat. But today, instead of gladiator fights, we find a festive atmosphere.
The square is also home to the Church of Saint Agnes in Agony, commissioned by Pope Innocent X. Legend says this is the site where St Agnes was stripped naked, but miraculously saved from disgrace by her hair’s extraordinary growth. Shall we say, a cross between discreet Lady Godiva and a spontaneous Rapunzel.
The Fountain of Four Rivers
Bernini constructed the massive Fountain of Four Rivers between 1647 and 1651. To me, it resembles the famous Trevi Fountain, not in shape, but for the inclusion of heroic statues and platforms amidst roaring water. At night floodlights radiate underwater creating a greenish-golden glow.
The four rivers are represented by the Nile, Ganges, Danube and the Rio de la Plata. They depict the then known continents under papal power. These rivers spalsh from a central marble rock, where a Roman obelisk rises high above. The obelisk honors the ancient founder of the square.
Bernini’s statue, naturally baroque in style, contains symbolic touches. Bracing against the currents are pagan river gods, animals and plants, each supposedly appropriate to the continent. For instance, the Ganges carries a long oar, representing the river’s navigability and a snake slithers nearby.
The Nile’s head is draped with a loose piece of cloth, because no one knew the location of the headwaters. An African lion lurches from the middle of the basin, a specimen of the continent.
The Danube touches the Papal coat of arms, since it is the largest river closest to Rome. A regal horse dramatically charges through the pool.
The Strange Crocodile in the detail of the River of Four Fountains
And the RÃo de la Plata god sits on a pile of coins, a symbol of the riches the Americas could offer to Europe. At the time not much was known about the animals in North or South America, so a strange looking crocodile, armor-plated like an armadillo was chosen as the representative creature. Be sure to look for it.
Coin-tossing kids and sweaty tourists love to stand close, allowing the cool mist to spray on their body. They watch the water cascading down the stones, amazed at this outdoor wonder. Professor Langdon didn’t have time to appreciate the masterpiece; he was too busy trying not to drown.
Fortunately, visitors to the Eternal City find life-sustaining fountains galore, each spewing a seemingly endless supply of aqua. Water, water everywhere… oh, where will our story flow?
Mimi (Debi Lander) did not, nor is she now, receiving any compensation from Dan Brown, Sony Pictures or the Angels & Demons tour company. She paid her own travels and tour expenses.
Images by Debi Lander, Gary Granfield or courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.
