Category Archives: Travel Journal/Blog

St Francis, La Conquistadora and her Clothing:Santa Fe, New Mexico

Saint Francis
Saint Francis

Saint Francis of Assisi, founder of the Franciscan Order, is venerated for his humanity, humility and love of nature. The legend of St. Francis looms large in Santa Fe and the St. Francis Basilica, just a block off the central Plaza, draws many tourists. This Romanesque style cathedral was built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of an earlier church that was destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt–an uprising of the Native Indian population against the Spanish colonists.

Lady Chapel

The church also includes a curious side chapel devoted to a 30-inch high statue, La Conquistadora, Our Lady of Conquering Love. She is the oldest representation of the Virgin Mary in the United States and first came to Santa Fe in 1626. She was rescued from the 1680  Pueblo Revolt and then hidden. She returned in 1693 with Don DeVargas, whom the King of Spain sent to reclaim the city.  He claimed “the Lady”  helped prevent major bloodshed.

Researchers have not been able to establish her origin or how La Conquistadora originally arrived on the continent, but she is worshiped and considered the patroness of Santa Fe.  Her presence is annually celebrated by parading the icon on San Francisco Street during the Fiesta de Santa Fe. This September event commemorates the city’s reconquest.

What I found fascinating is her wardrobe, a collection of outfits that are changed according to the church calendar. Her robes are handmade by faithful followers and many contain jewels and handwritten prayers sewn in the linings. Over 200 pieces of clothing are kept under lock and key in the Basilica, but for the first time have been put on display.

La Conquistadora's Clothing Collection

I had the rare treat of seeing the exquisite exhibit later on my visit. Admittedly the clothing looks doll-sized but carries a legendary past.  Each article tells a story:some were stitched as offerings for answered prayers, others cut from the cloth of liturgical garments or even bridal gowns to add special meaning. In addition to her wardrobe, the icon’s crowns and jewelry are on display,  including  her diamond and emerald Byzantine cross.

To view her never before seen closet, visit The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, which sits on Santa Fe’s Museum Hill.  Threads of Devotion: The Wardrobe of La Conquistadora is on display through December 31st, 2010.


St. Francis Basilica, Santa Fe, NM

The Best Tourist Attraction in London: The Tower

Tower of London

A fall trip to London would be smashing. Europe’s largest city has enough to keep tourists busy for months.  But, what if you only have time to visit one site? Which would it be?  Westminster Abbey, Big Ben and the House of Parliament, the British Museum or the Tower of London?  I’d pick the Tower of London and in fact, highly recommend returning on every trip. Sounds trite but the UNESCO World Heritage site truly offers something of significance for most everyone.

Want history and architecture? William the Conqueror began work on the Tower shortly after he won his crown in 1066 . That’s nearly a thousand years ago.  He wanted to protect his important London base. Over the centuries, the stronghold evolved into a symbol of English royalty.

Today, visitors find a complex of castles, fortifications, courtyards and buildings including the famous White Tower started back in 1078. The legendary Bloody Tower held two imprisoned princes, sons of Edward IV, who were likely murdered by Richard III. Stroll around to the former scaffold grounds where notorious beheadings took place, including those of Queen Anne Boleyn and Sir Thomas Moore.

Scaffold Site

Bird lovers enjoy the ravens who are guaranteed to be on the Tower Green. Legend says the kingdom will fall if they desert the property. Shh, the ravens wings are clipped.

The fortress acted not just as a royal residence and prison, but as a treasury and armory. Now a fantastic assemblage of medieval weapons and royal armor are exhibited. Those interested in religion are drawn to the simple Chapel of St. John, the oldest church in London, and a fine example of Norman architecture.

The Crown Jewels are securely stored in the Jewel House underground. They attract a line of visitors waiting to ogle over the vast collection of priceless gems and royal regalia.

Photographers shoot the view of Tower Bridge, seen from the  edge of The Water Gate, better known as Traitor’s Gate. Queens Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Princess Elizabeth, later Queen Elizabeth 1, entered it as prisoners.  And no visit to London is complete without a snapshot of the flamboyantly costumed Beefeaters or Yeoman Warders. They guard the Castle grounds and give lively tours.

The Tower is London is, in my opinion, the city’s best landmark and its location is ideal for anyone looking for hotels in London city centre. The subway offers easy access via the Tower Hill stop. Even if time is short, don’t miss this historic and enthralling site.

A quizzical look from a Yeoman Warder

Discovering the Legend of Auburn’s War Eagle

At The Raptor Center

The War Eagle Flies

When I moved to Florida in ’97, a neighbor asked, “Are you a gator or a dawg?”  Having no idea what the reference meant, I simply replied, “A dog,” since I owned a lovable golden retriever.  Only later did I realize he was talking college football and mascots– a sport ranking legendary in Florida.

Over the years I have learned to read referee’s signals; move my arms in the Florida gator chomp; met Uga –the University of Georgia’s bulldog; toured the Bear Bryant football museum in Tuscaloosa, Alabama and attended the Gator Bowl- held in my hometown of Jacksonville.

But, I’ve never had a special allegiance to any of these SEC (Southeastern Conference) schools until now.  My daughter enrolled as a freshman at Auburn University (class of 2014) so I’ve become a Tiger fan. I’ve also mastered the phrase, “War Eagle,” the battle cry or greeting used when meeting a student or alumnae.

How did Auburn come to have two animal symbols, particularly a War Eagle?

I discovered the answer when I visited the Southeastern Raptor Center on Auburn’s Veterinary School campus.  Or did I?  Numerous myths surround the iconic eagle at AU, but the most popular seems to be the one dating back to the Civil War.

According to printed legend published in 1960 in the Auburn Plainsman:

A soldier from Alabama was the sole Confederate survivor of a bloody battle. Stumbling across the battlefield, he found a wounded young eagle, kept it and nursed the bird back to health. Several years later the soldier, a former Auburn student, returned to college as a faculty member, bringing the bird with him. For years both were a familiar sight on campus and at events. On the day of Auburn’s first football game in 1892 against the University of Georgia, the aged eagle broke away from his master during the game and began to circle the field, exciting the fans. But at the end of the game, with Auburn victorious, the eagle fell to the ground and died.

Reminds me of the story of the runner, Pheidippides, the messenger who ran back and forth to Sparta (150 miles) and was then sent from Marathon to Athens (25 miles) to tell of the great victory. He completed then run, then died.

The first documented live eagle on campus arrived in November 1930. He was a golden eagle who swooped down on a flock of turkeys and became entangled in vines. Some individuals including cheerleaders DeWit Stier and Harry “Happy” Davis helped care for the rescued bird. They put it in a cage and took it to the Auburn football game against the University of South Carolina on Thanksgiving Day.

Nova returns to his trainer

Auburn, having not won a Southern Conference game in four seasons, was expected to lose. However, the Tigers managed a 25-7 victory over the Gamecocks. The student body could only conclude that the eagle’s presence on the sidelines was responsible for the victory.

The legend seems to continue today. A lady seated in the stadium said, “If the eagle sweeps over the crowd, Auburn will win.”  If the eagle flies directly to the trainer and its food stationed on the 50 yard line, well… victory is not guaranteed.

Whatever you believe, the Southeastern Raptor Center is a place of pride for the University.  Dr. Jimmy Milton founded it in the mid-1970’s to rehabilitate and release injured birds of prey. Over the years endowments and funding have enlarged the facility which now boasts  24 state of the art mews, a hospital, rehab building and educational center.

The Eagle has Landed

Nova, the golden eagle known as War Eagle VII and Spirit, a Bald Eagle, are trained at the Raptor Center along with other hawks, owl and vultures unable to return to the wild. The eagles continue to amaze spectators, flying free at the start of games in  Jordan-Hare Stadium. I must admit, watching Spirit soar prickled my spine. Their presence adds a unique touch to school  tradition and War Eagle history. When 90,000 fanatical fans pack in, the place rocks. And like the famous lunar  landing, when you go to Auburn’s game, you can  truly say the eagle has landed.


For anyone interested in learning more and viewing these birds up close, consider the ‘Football, Fans and Feathers’ show at the Raptor Center’s amphitheater on the Friday afternoons before Auburn home football games. Donations of $5.00 per person help support their educational programs.

Southeastern Raptor Center

1350 Raptor Road
Auburn University, AL 36849-5524

Barred Owl