Category Archives: Travel Journal/Blog

Visit the David Wills House while in Gettysburg

Taking Grandchildren to Gettysburg

A visit to Gettysburg tugs on your heart, bewilders the mind and saddens the soul. Yet, it brings forth honor and hope and perhaps, even a sense of peace. At least it did for me.

Canon_

Taking the grandkids to Gettysburg

I took my two oldest grandchildren, ages 9 and 11, the day after we visited Chocolate World in Hershey, Pennsylvania. Nine-year-old Kyra put it astutely, “Mimi, these two places are polar opposites.”  Yes, they are. Hershey was delicious fun, play time and laughter. Gettysburg was a solemn history lesson.

What does the chasing of history achieve? Does it matter where events took place and whether or not we can understand them?

Gettysburg National Military Park
Gettysburg National Military Park

Our first stop was the Gettysburg Military Park Headquarters and Visitors Center where we watched a movie narrated by  Morgan Freeman. The film explained the overwhelming loss of life that happened in this small town 150 years ago, some 57,225 causalities (dead, wounded, captured or missing) from both sides during the three-day campaign. The movie also described how the Union victory helped end the Civil War and bring forth the Emancipation Proclamation.

Detail in one section of the Gettysburg Cyclorama
Detail in one section of the Gettysburg Cyclorama

After the film, we climbed stairs to view the historic and restored Cyclorama, the largest painting in the US.  French artist Paul Philippoteaux and his team painted the 377 foot long (now 359)  by 42 feet high work in 1883, 30 years after the battle.  The 360-degree cylindrical painting depicts  Pickett’s Charge, the climactic Confederate attack on the Union forces during the Battle of Gettysburg on July 3, 1863.

Children watch the sound and light show.
Children watch the sound and light show.

This type of presentation, popular at the turn-of- the-century, was intended to immerse viewers in the scene with the addition of foreground models and life-sized replicas to enhance the illusion. The grandkids and I were fascinated by the sound and light show effects on articles, like canon, and how they created a realistic intensity to the work of art. (Tip: we visited near the end of the day and practically had the space to ourselves.)

 

David Wills House
David Wills House

But, it was our visit to the David Wills House the next morning that brought the story of Gettysburg together. The old brick home in the center of town was filled with  wounded and dying soldiers after the battle. Leading citizens met there to make plans for proper burials. Wills, an attorney, acquired land for the National Cemetery and sent President Lincoln an invitation by telegram. This led to his coming to Gettysburg and giving the most famous speech in American history.

Lincoln spent the night before the dedication in the Wills House revising his intended remarks. His short speech the next day surprised many, but his words – known as the Gettysburg Address – are long remembered.

Lincoln Bedroom in Gettysburg
Lincoln Bedroom in Gettysburg

While touring the upstairs of the Wills House, including the bedroom as it was during Lincoln’s stay, we saw another film. This one clearly revealed how the freedoms won by the Emancipation Proclamation were not truly fulfilled. The production showed the rise of the Klux Klux Klan and how segregation became a way of life in the South.

The presentation also included footage of Martin Luther King giving his famous “I Have a Dream” speech, which had days before celebrated a 50th anniversary and was, therefore, familiar in my grandchildren’s minds. The movie ends with LBJ signing the Civil Rights Bill and more current American scenes.

Cleary, even now, not all men are treated equally; discrimination still occurs and struggles continue.  But, I left the Wills House with a feeling of deeper compassion and hopeful expectation. I think my grandchildren did, too. They are our future and taking them to a place like this is worthwhile. History has meaning, when we try to understand, but that’s not to say fun is frivolous.  On the contrary, both are necessary.

Visitor Center Gift Shop
Visitor Center Gift Shop

*********

150th Commemoration

Every November 19th, Gettysburg commemorates the cemetery dedication and the delivery of the Gettysburg Address on Dedication Day. This year will mark the 150th commemoration.

Dedication Day will be held at Soldiers’ National Cemetery and will include a Wreath Laying Ceremony at 10 a.m., followed by a formal ceremony. Speaking will be Pulitzer Prize-winning author and noted American Civil War historian James McPherson. The formal ceremony will feature candidates taking the United States Oath of Citizenship and a $5,000 scholarship will be awarded to a Pennsylvania student as part of the “In Lincoln’s Footsteps” speech competition. Music will be provided by the U.S. Marine Corps Band and nationally renowned Lincoln portrayer James Getty will deliver a recitation of the Gettysburg Address.

Coinciding with Dedication Day and the 150th anniversary of the Gettysburg Address is Remembrance Day, to be held this year on Saturday, Nov. 23. Gettysburg residents and visitors annually commemorate the sacrifices made during and after the battle.

Remembrance Day will begin with a Grand Army of the Republic Memorial Service at the Woolson Monument in Zeigler’s Grove in the Gettysburg National Military Park at 11 a.m. The service will be followed by the 57th Annual Remembrance Day Parade, which will step off downtown at 1 p.m. in remembrance of the soldiers who served during the Civil War.

The 11th Annual Remembrance Illumination will take place on Nov. 23 at Soldiers’ National Cemetery from 5:30-9:30 p.m. Luminary candles will be lit on the graves of each of the Civil War soldiers to commemorate the sacrifices made at Gettysburg.

For more information on Dedication Day and Remembrance Day events, visit www.gettysburgcivilwar150.com.

Battlefield Memorials in Gettysburg
Battlefield Memorials in Gettysburg

Delicious Day at Hershey, Pennsylvania

Taking two of my grandkids to Hershey, Pennsylvania ranked as a delicious day in numerous ways. Of course we tasted lots of decadent chocolate, but my grandchildren and I gained much more than yummy calories.

Tasting layout at Hershey's Chocolate University
Tasting at Chocolate University

We attended a “Hershey University Adventure” which began with a brief history on cacao; something that might have been a bitter lesson but engaged the children by using “live” video. The class then learned to properly taste chocolate by letting it melt on our tongues. We sampled milk chocolate, dark, artisan, and specialty varieties and learned that white chocolate isn’t really chocolate. Each of us discovered we liked a different flavor.

I felt like a kid again wearing 3-D glasses, but the animated film we watched was touted as 4-D; it included smells, spraying water and floating bubbles.

The Famous Chocolate Characters.
Chocolate World Characters

Next, we hopped on a trolley where the guides, a dynamic singing duo, cleverly educated us about Milton Hershey, the company founder who developed the small town with a large candy factory. Their puns came so fast and furious the entire group got the giggles.

The trolley traveled down appropriate named streets like Chocolate Drive and Cocoa Avenue and past many community projects built by Hershey. The so called “Sweetest Place on

Earth” is illuminated by candy kiss lamp posts, alternating between silver and chocolate- like wrapped and unwrapped kisses.

Did you know Milton Hershey began an orphanage and school for under-privileged boys? The academic institution continues to this day but now accepts girls as well. The high school students can earn scholarship money for college by accruing good grades and participating in community service. This statement is not sugar coated – they can earn up to a whopping $88,000.

During WWII, Mr. Hershey got behind the war effort and produced ration bars for battlefield soldiers. During the Great Depression, he kept workers employed by building homes for employees and the grand Hershey Hotel. (Don’t miss touring the hotel and  magnificent gardens.) Milton Hershey is rightly considered a great American philanthropist and humanitarian.

Hershey Hotel
Hershey Hotel

The ultimate experience at Hershey’s World of Chocolate is creating your own candy bars. First we donned aprons and hair nets which looked quite silly. We each got to choose ingredients for the fillings at a computer screen – treats such as nuts, pretzel bits, sprinkles or butterscotch chips. We watched our personal bar (with slightly raised sides) move down an assembly line, get filled and coated in melted chocolate, then cooled and finally wrapped and packaged in a box we personally designed on another computer. We ended up with a divine chocolate confection in a tin container and a euphoric sugar high.

Working on computer at Hershey's Chocolate World
Working on computer at Hershey’s Chocolate World

Couldn’t miss the thrill rides at adjoining Hersheypark, an amusement arena containing a super-sized water park – at no extra fee. While I wasn’t up for all the death defying vertical roller coasters or queasy twirling ones, I did feel proud to survive the Super Duper Looper and water flume with my grandson and granddaughter.

Hersheypark
Hersheypark

As an out-of-state grandmother, making memories is what spending time with grandkids is all about. Honestly Hershey, Pennsylvania provided one of the sweetest opportunities I’ve encountered.

Bumbling Through Belgium

While I consider myself a seasoned world traveler, Carol Skipper had only been out of the country once before, but it seemed like I was the one making all the mistakes.  I arranged to meet Carol’s flight at the Amsterdam airport, a destination I’d flown into the week before.

Debi and Carol
Debi and Carol in Bruges

 

Carol arrived in the morning and we transferred our belongings to the airport hotel. Then we returned to get a bus for Keukenhof, Holland’s premier tulip garden covering 80 acres.  But when I reached to get my cell phone out of my zippered pocket, it was gone. I’d been pick-pocketed in those few moments.

 

 

 

 

Feeling naked and without my link to the world, I tried to forget about it. I struggled feeling like someone had violated my personal space and I kept kicking myself for not being more attentive. Nonetheless, we bought our tickets and then missed hearing our group being called. I was so frazzled and Carol was in that haze of an overnight flight, so neither of us had even been aware. Fortunately, another bus left in a half hour and we redeemed the mistake.

 

Keukenhof Tulip
Keukenhof Tulip

 

 

The sprawling gardens and the day were spectacular and we got down to using our macro and telephotos lenses trying to isolate flowers. We meandered through the greenhouses, around a lake and up a windmill. When the hungries hit, we bought a waffle, a typical afternoon snack for Dutch and Belgians. That may seem like a boring statement to include, but not when it was the best waffle you’d ever eaten. We became hooked and these dense, sugar crusted gems became once-a-day treats for the rest of the trip.

 

We lost track of time and when we arrived at the bus loading area, it was mobbed as thick as the pregame swarm waiting to enter the Florida/Georgia game. Where had all of these people come from and where was the line we needed? We hoped for the best and got in a queue among the orderly mass (quite civilized compared to US crowds). Eventually we made it back to the airport, then took the hotel shuttle and ended our first day together- exhausted and happy.

 

 

Amsterdam
Amsterdam

 

The next morning we wanted to catch the hi-speed train for Brussels. Another snag – our EuRail passes required an extra fee for this direct train.  We were okay with paying more, but there were no open reservations. Lesson learned. Instead, we boarded the train requiring us to makes transfers. “No problem,” said the conductor, just cross the platform.”

 

We did just that, lugging our suitcases and camera gear and got on the next train across the platform.  Except the next train was not the 10:12, it was the 10:07. Who knew trains were so exact.  We soon realized we were on the wrong train and would have to get off and transfer once again.  Whew!

 

Brussels Grand Place Illumination
Brussels Grand Place Illumination

Alas we made it to Brussels and immediately discovered a waffle vendor. One bite and our troubles were over. We checked into the wonderful Royal Windsor Hotel which was within walking distance (thanks Belgium Tourism). This place was gorgeous, one of the perks of my being a travel writer even if just for one night. But, we were not here to relax in a hotel room, no matter how nice.

 

We had pre-paid for a city tour including a stop at a chocolate factory. Off we went with our cameras and met the group; toured the Grand Place, which was indeed a grand collection of Gothic, Baroque and Flemish architectural wonders including city hall. We saw much of the newer districts – the capitol of the European Union, the royal palace and visited the former site of the 1958 World’s Fair to capture the Atomium – a very cool immense statue of an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times.

 

 

 

Our chocolate class ended up more of a demonstration; however we had a lot of laughs with the chocolate replicas of the famous Brussels statue, Manneken Pis. Need we say more?

Chocolate Class Mannenken Pis
Chocolate Clas Mannenken Pis

We dined at an outdoor cafe near the Grand Place and then photographed the buildings as super cool recessed neon lightening came on.  As much as we wanted to stay until it got really dark (sunset doesn’t arrive until 10 pm), we were just too tired. We walked back to the hotel and almost went to bed. But whoa!  I looked out and ended up climbing on top of the desk to open the window to get this shot!!

Grand Place Window View
Grand Place Window View

Mannenken Pis
Mannenken Pis

 

 

 

 

 

We left enough time in the morning to see the real Manneken Pis.  He is just a tiny statue, barely two feet high, and was dressed in a military outfit, but if you are in Brussels, you must visit him! Then we schlepped all our bags back to the train station and took off for Ghent. Big change from a bustling major city, however, Ghent is large enough that we needed a taxi to get us to our historic district hotel.

 

 

 

That afternoon we took a canal cruise and strolled the streets- and ate another waffle.  Ghent is a charming Flemish town, full of canal houses, cafes, cathedrals and a castle. It’s also a university town.

 

When Carol went to upload her photos to her laptop, the thing crashed. Great- now she was without her computer and me without my phone. Annoying and frustrating, but not enough to stop us from having a good time.

 

I might also add that Carol was big on ordering water, while I sampled Belgian beer- some of the best in the world.  When the bill would arrive, Carol always owed more for her water than me drinking brewskies. Hmmm.

 

Ghent Canal
Ghent Canal

We were staying in Ghent two nights, but the next morning we needed to get back to the train station in order to make a day trip to Bruges. We felt proud of ourselves as we bought tickets from a machine and rode the public tram.

 

We wandered into Bruges passing house after house with a door, or window, or roofline we wanted to photograph. The medieval town of winding streets and canals is justifiably one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe. It’s totally charismatic, with a large market square, horse and buggies to ride and even a swan lake.

 

We waited in line to climb the Belfort or bell tower, 366 steps up a 272 foot tower built between the 13th and 15th centuries. After huffing and puffing, the view was fantastic but the window grating made photography difficult.

 

We sat outdoors for lunch, me indulging in a big bowl of mussels, a local specialty. We shopped back alleys, went into the Gothic town hall, saw a relic of the blood of Christ, got turned around several times and finally made it to the church to see Michelangelo’s statue of Madonna and Child– at the exact moment the priest was closing the door.  “Come back tomorrow morning,” he said.  How sad, we wouldn’t be in Bruges again. We did discover a marvelous photo op bridge and the tallest ever brick steeple on the church.  And we did indulge in Belgian chocolate on the way back. Bruges is definitely a destination that calls for at least two days if not longer.

 

Ghent Cathedral
Ghent Cathedral

 

 

Once back in Ghent we hopped on the tram, debating if we needed to purchase another ticket. Our real trouble was that we couldn’t remember exactly where we had gotten on in the morning!  Needless to say, we walked a very long way back to our hotel.

 

The next morning we stopped in St. Bavo’s Cathedral before leaving town, we couldn’t miss another artistic masterpiece. The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb is 12 famous altar panels by Jan van Eyck and his brother, completed in 1432.  All except one panel are original and each is exquisitely painted in great detail except for the two end panels of Adam and Eve which are very stark. Very memorable.

 

Then off for Amsterdam. Again I goofed and got us on a local train with many stops. But one of the funniest moments came as we checked into our lodging- I had unknowingly booked us into a gay and lesbian hotel. The place was a throw back to the early 70’s, with “mod” decor.  We laughed and felt a little strange, but dropped our luggage and took off to see the sights.

 

We waited in a long line to see the Anne Frank house, again well worth the time and effort. We dined along the canal and wished we had another week instead of a morning flight. Sadly, the sun began to sink and gas lights came on and we vowed we’d just have to bumble through another adventure next year.

 

Disclosure:  My trip to Holland and Belgium was entirely self-funded except for the one night’s lodging in the Royal Windsor Hotel, Brussels, compliments of Belgium Tourism.  My thanks.