Category Archives: Destinations

Nova Scotia ~ A Mystical Escape to Oceanstone Inn

When one arrives in Nova Scotia they enter the spellbinding zone of tidal time. On this Canadian province Mother Nature takes charge with clocklike precision, her tides ebb predictably and massively.

In fact, the miraculous shift of water in Nova Scotia’s Bay of Fundy is the highest in the world. Twice a day 115 billion tons of water move in and out causing a rise and fall of 20, 30, often 40 feet. During a full moon and high winds, Bay of Fundy tides rise as high as fifty feet as if to emphasize the smallness of man relative to nature.

Upon arrival, I was greeted with beguiling moonlight and the seductive sloshing of waves lulling me to sleep as they broke near my door. The fullness of the beach emerged with morning’s low tide, reminding me of the regularity of the universe:  spring follows winter, rain falls, the sun rises.

If you head in the direction of famed Peggy’s Cove, a tiny fishing village known for its iconic lighthouse, you pass Indian Harbour where the sprawling Oceanstone Inn dons the landscape. Seven maritime cottages pepper the estate creating a private, romantic retreat, one of simple, rustic splendor and homey comforts. You kick-off your shoes and feel at ease, time slows and distractions fade. Nature’s vibes seep through my toes and feet.

Owners Ron and Carole Ron MacInnis manage the establishment with a benevolent spirit. They welcome each guest as family and coax them to relax and enjoy the glorious gardens and magical coast. Ron, the resident Thoreau, is a peaceful environmentalist concerned with discovering life’s spiritual needs. He’ll quote a line of poetry to make a point in the most charming way. Carole, on the other hand, darts about the grounds like a fire-fly. She is Goldilocks delivering baskets of breakfast goodies or offering help whenever needed.

Oceanstone Inn and Cottages from the water's edge.

I decided to venture along the property’s shoreline, negotiating a challenging, tiered mound of rocks.  A torrent of random thoughts entered my head: be strong and tenacious, withstand the gusty storms just like these stones. But at the same time, be free to wander akin to the pebble I tossed in the ocean. I picked up another and rubbed my fingers along its smooth worn edges, perhaps a reminder to soften my own. Then, I simply sat, breathed, absorbed the sun’s warmth and began to feel radiant.

Next morning, I awoke before sunrise and slipped out on the upper deck of my two-story cabin, the Crow’s Nest. I stared to my right at the stalwart beacon of a tiny dilapidated light station. Paddy’s Head Lighthouse shined brightly within the vibrant, planetarium-clear night sky. I tiptoed down the cottage stairs to a small kitchen and brewed morning coffee. Sinking into a dreamlike stupor, I surrendered and relished the nothingness of the moment.

At dawn, my group and I departed to photograph the famous red and white lighthouse of Peggy’s Cove. Ghostly filaments of mist gradually evaporated as lavender skies awakened the coast. We carefully crossed over massive granite slabs; their elemental strength bespeaking ancient age. The Cove thrives as a stopping place for tourists, the most photographed destination in Canada, but also offers a pause for inward reflection. I listened and heard the repetitive beating of my heart as it matched the rhythm of the sea.

The wonderment of a new day emerged with gulls flying and squawking a cheery greeting. The treacherous taunts of the Atlantic turned more playful, frolicking and shooting salty spray over the gray behemoth boulders, only to retreat with a whimper. Again, I aligned with the ebb and flow of the tides.

Waves crash below the famous lighthouse at Peggy's Cove.

Nova Scotia is home to some fabulous fishing and luscious lobster beckons as a decadent treat. After indulging in the savory crustacean, I practically dove onto a bed of yellow-green kelp to capture a picturesque shot. As kelp sustains sea life, I found  it nourished my soul.

Kelp covers the Cove

I returned to the lighthouse in the late afternoon and eyed purple hues and shades of mauve glittering off the water. They danced a sensuous bolero that I longed to join. The wind’s chill bore down on my skin stealing my concentration and resisting my attempts to stay warm.

Suddenly, low angled rays hit the windows of a small house reflecting a fiery golden glow. The scene looked so hauntingly dramatic and surreal. Was I actually in such a mystical place?

Eventually the sun set and an ancient Celtic ballad rose in the air sounding like a bagpiper’s lament. It’s been said there are thin places where the dividing line between the spiritual and ordinary come closer. Indeed, Nova Scotia is such a place and I lingered betwixt and between.

Afternoon sun in Peggy's Cove

If you go:  Oceanstone Inn and Cottages

http://www.oceanstone.ns.ca/

1-866-823-2160


 

Wonders at the Wizarding World of Harry Potter

Hogwart's Castle in Orlando

Sometimes you look forward to visiting a place to the point that you’re disappointed when you finally arrive. Not so with the Wizarding World of Harry Potter in Orlando.  I entered Universal’s Islands of Adventure around 4:30 pm on a Saturday afternoon which turned out to be advantageous timing. Hoards of hot, dreary guests were leaving as I walked in. I headed straight back through the theme park, past colorful Seuss Landing, to the 20-acre complex of Hogsmeade.

The snow capped Victorian village feels exactly like stepping into the pages of J.K. Rowling’s famous books.  The place is enchanting, even with throngs of tourists; you feel the author’s dreams and imagination come to life.  HoneyDukes candy shoppe is a luscious allure of sweets, the florists shop window contains screaming mandrake plants and the owl post office sends mail with Hogsmeade stamps.

I didn’t tarry in town, rather high-tailed it to Hogswarts Castle for “the ride.” Signage noted a waiting time of 75 minutes, but I entered the singles line which cut the queue to about 35 minutes. (Hint- families can save time using this approach as long as they don’t mind splitting up for the ride.) While waiting within the castle, visitors are entertained by talking portraits, holograms and the profound sorting hat.

I spoke with Amy from Pennsylvania and her two daughters Elizabeth and Karen. They were repeating their third ride of the day. They’d also visited the park the day before and plan to return for spring break. Needless of say this family of experts cherish all things Harry Potter.

Finally, I was ready to sit down and ride my broomstick on the Forbidden Journey. Off  I flew, up and down swooping to great heights and through narrow alley ways and castle towers. I followed Harry on his adventures, playing Quidditch, escaping from the Whomping Willow tree and immense spiders dangling down to my knees. A fire-spewing dragon roared hot breath at my face, I was squirted by plants, and saw eerie apparitions.  The fast moving thrill was the best amusement park ride I’ve ever ridden: a mix of Disney’s Space Mountain, Haunted House and 3-D Star Wars effects. Just lovely.

I exited and stopped for a Butterbeer– a frozen drink to cool down from the overwhelming heat. Yum- tastes like a cream soda, sweet butterscotch, with a frothy head of a Guinness.

Raising a mug of Butterbeer

I spent about 25 minutes standing outside Ollivander’s wand shop. Upon entering, the costumed shop owner selects one lucky lad to find a wand from the vast collection. The first two offerings were failures, certainly not meant for him, but the third attempt united the wizard and spell caster. Very well done.

I ate dinner at The Three Boomsticks Restaurant, choosing the combo plate of chicken, ribs, roasted potatoes and corn on the cob instead of the more English fish and chips. Far better than anticipated for theme park food.  I completed the meal with a Hogs Head brew, a Sam Adam’s like beer. Total cost of the meal and drink –$19.95. The quantity proved way more than I could eat.

I had a delightful ride on the Hippogriff, a roller coaster which passes by Hagrid’s cottage.  Perfect for youngsters or those who wish a tamer experience. When I was nearing The Dragon Challenge, lightening crackled and the outdoor attractions closed.  I meandered  through the village, stopping to shop on my way out of the park.  The young couple in front of me said they were visiting for the tenth time. The endearing place, built at the cost of $265 million, seems to put a spell on some folk.

In three and a half hours I had pretty well covered the Wizarding World but must confess I saw nothing else in Universal’s huge arena. That’s okay with me, this muggle wanted  to step into Hermione’s shoes and couldn’t have danced through a happier eve.

Evening descends on Hogsmeade

*************

I Disclose:

While I received a free ticket to Universal as a paid attendee at The Travel Bloggers Show in Orlando, the pass in no way encouraged this blog.  As was previously mentioned in an earlier post, I had planned to visit the park this fall. I do want to thank Universal for the special opportunity and will definitely return.

Scotland – Recommending Edinburgh’s Military Tattoo

Imagine one thousand performers crammed elbow to elbow in a stadium or, in this case, the Castle Esplanade. Columns and columns of bagpipers, drummers, band members and dancers squeeze together for the grand finale.  The audience roars and claps their approval, then a hush falls over the crowd. Those seated reach out and grab hands with one another.  Music resumes and they start to sway and sing  Auld Lang Syne.  I remember that moment vividly, as it sent goose-bump chills through my body, raised unexpected emotion and a sense of national pride.

Edinburgh Military Tattoo
View from the bleachers of the Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

Two thousand and ten marks the Diamond Jubilee Year of Edinburgh’s celebrated Royal Military Tattoo which will take place from August 6-28th, against the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle. This royal residence, atop a volcanic rock, has been around since at least 12th century. In 1566 Mary Queen of Scots gave birth in the castle to her only child, the future King James VI of Scotland and I of England.

I was fortunate to see the world’s most spectacular Tattoo in 2007 on a trip to Scotland’s capital city.  According to Wikipedia, ” The word “Tattoo” is derived from “tap toe” (“toe” is pronounced “too”), the Dutch for “Last orders”. Translated literally, it means: “put the tap to”, or “turn off the tap”. ”

The British adopted the practice, played by a regiment’s Corps of Drums to tavern owners, to turn off the taps so that the soldiers would retire. Later in the 18th century, the term Tattoo was used to describe not only the last duty call, but also a ceremonial form of evening entertainment performed by military musicians. So, today’s  tattoo is a performance of military bands and extras. In Scotland it calls for bagpipes and drums.

Bagpipers marching and playing in the Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
Bagpipers marching and playing in the Edinburgh Tattoo

This year an expected 217,000 people will see the Tattoo live on the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle, and it has sold out in advance for the last decade. Thirty percent of the audience are from Scotland and 35% from the rest of the United Kingdom. The remaining 35% of the audience consists of 70,000 visitors from overseas. The Tattoo is televised in 30 countries and an additional 100 million people see the event on television worldwide.

I remember strolling alongside a tangled traffic jam toward the floodlit castle, perched on a massive crag. Near the top, I passed  through century’s old oak gates and took a grandstand seat. I could feel the excited anticipation of the other ticket holders.  Soon, the swelling sound of hundreds of pipes and drums cracked through the air and a kaleidoscope of colors began to appear.

Military bands marched in formation, immense flags were unfurled and graceful dancers whirled. The highlight, for me, was the Lone Piper on the Castle ramparts.  Lit by a single spotlight and the flickering flames of the Castle torch lights,  he played a haunting lament that brought tears to my eyes. Why is the sound of a bagpipe so soulful?

As his melody faded away,  fireworks burst over the Castle hanging in the dark sky.  But the solemn mood continued as the crowd now joined together in song.  I remember glancing toward my Scottish neighbor’s face and feeling a sense of unity.  The Edinburgh Military Tattoo has become a recognizable symbol of the city, one that imparts a shared love of Scotland, her music and traditions.

Attending a live performance has been checked off my bucket list, but I encourage you to add it to yours.

Dancers perform
Dancers perform in the annual Edinburgh Tattoo.

If you go, make your lodging choice from the hotels in Edinburgh city centre and plan to walk everywhere.  The crowd in the city resonates with  infectious cheer.