Category Archives: Land Adventures

Recalling St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin, Ireland ~March 2000

-0803_St. Patrick's Day009Even though I’m not Catholic or Irish, my family and I celebrate St. Patrick’s Day -it’s my son, Steve’s birthday. Why, we’ve even gone to Ireland for the special day-twice.

Debi, Jay & Laura 2000
Debi, Jay & Laura in Dublin- March, 2000

Back in 2000 Steve took a job in England. So, my husband Jay and I, and Laura, our then 9-year-old daughter flew to Dublin arriving on a misty morning. Lush, velvety green hills surrounded us, making it obvious why this country is called the Emerald Isle.

Our taxi was forced to drop us blocks from our hotel; the holiday parade swarmed over the streets. I felt self-conscious and out of place rolling my luggage down the jammed sidewalk to St. Stephen’s Green . There, at last, was our hotel.

Like so many other grand dames, The Shelbourne, boasts a salon for high tea and a reading room with leather chairs, which, to be honest, reeked of cigarette and cigar smoke. The hallway leading to our room included a few stairs and some odd turns, making me realize the building had been renovated numerous times.

But the place had an ambiance most welcoming and, on this day, most festive. Families reunited and embraced distant relatives and dear friends. Children scooted under foot and furniture and no one minded.

By the time we freshened up, the parade had disbursed and the crowds were off in the pubs for lunch. We joined them, but the lines now snaked out onto the sidewalk. While we waited, we discovered buffet presentations were the only choice of the day. That became a problem because Laura was, first of all, overly tired and second, not an adventurous eater. She turned her nose up at Irish stew, corned beef and cabbage, leeks and mutton. Surely the Irish cooked something she liked, but we didn’t find it that day.

By evening Steve, naturally, was ready to party but our young one was ready for bed. Jay and I took turns in the hotel bar meeting Steve and mingling with Irish girls and gents, their complexions as pale and smooth as creamy butter. The accents were distinctive to our ears, and charming. And oh, their glorious auburn hair was pretty enough to evoke poetry.

We raised a glass to Jay’s ancestors (his Mother–the former Patty McCormick), Dublin, Steve, you name it; but before long I also gave into sleep. Not what you’d call a St. Patrick’s blow-out.

In retrospect, I was astonished that the holiday centered so much on family, not drinking. I appreciated the honesty of celebration: the men wearing real shamrocks on their lapels, no tacky fake flowers; no green hair, face paint, leprechaun hats or other exaggerated decor. And certainly no green beer. A trusted friend and a pint of Guinness were enough.

Next day we visited St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle, walked down to the trendy Temple Bar area filled with colorfully painted pubs, and crossed over a bridge on the River Liffey. (Sounds much more quaint that the Liffey River, doesn’t it?) Thankfully Laura found an acceptable item on the menu–salmon.

Sheep in Ireland
Sheep in Ireland

We met chatty locals and whomever we asked for directions or assistance, always answered us with kindness. We departed Ireland with endearing memories.

…To be continued with a trip to Belfast, Northern Ireland on St. Patrick’s Day, 2005.

The Spirit of Mardis Gras ~ New Orleans 2009

Krewe of Zulu
Krewe of Zulu member displays coconut "throws"

“Throw me some beads, mister,” is the cry heard all along parade routes, except at the Zulu promenade, where tradition calls for coconuts to be given away.

New Orleans embraces joie de vivre at Mardi Gras ; a jolly spirit like the reformed Ebenezer Scrooge on Christmas morning.  Strangers are friendly; they hand out small tokens; passersby smile and speak to one another.

Should that be unusual?  Well no, but sadly, most city streets don’t feel that way.

In New Orleans, folks wear outfits or masks on Fat Tuesday, which helps create a lighthearted mood.  They hang glitzy wreaths of purple, green and gold.  But unlike Christmas, Mardi Gras plays to a soundtrack of rhythm and blues, and is celebrated outdoors. The air smells from the pulse of the crowd, of hot dogs, beer and alcohol.

No one tossed me a coconut at the Zulu parade, but I caught lots of beads and gave most away. I dressed as Cruella DeVil ; my friend as a Dalmatian.  Revelers stopped us to take our picture.

Bourbon Street Awards Contestant
Bourbon Street Awards contestant

We gawked and laughed along with the participants in the obstreperous Bourbon Street Awards : a flamboyant drag-queen contest that, honey, is just something else.

At breakfast, I stuffed myself on waffles; ate a shrimp po’boy (sandwich) for lunch in a hole-in-the-wall cafe. Dog and I drank wine as we threw beads from a balcony over hanging the street.

In Louisiana, Fat Tuesday is a legal holiday, a date celebrated with abandon; one I look forward to annually.  Thankfully, the ghost of Katrina has faded. As Tiny Tim might say, “God bless Mardi Gras, every one.”

Mardi Gras Costumes--Dalmation Puppy and Cruella DeVil
Mardi Gras Costumes--Dalmation Puppy and Cruella DeVil


Off to New Orleans for Mardi Gras Madness

Time to head to the New Orleans for Mardi Gras Madness.

Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday as it sometimes called, is the last feasting day before Lent , indulgence before penance. The weeks leading up to it, known as Carnival, are celebrated with parties, masked balls, parades, and food. It’s a time to be a bit naughty and so I have good reason to devour New Orleans’s finest fare.

I make an annual Mardi Gras pilgrimage to the Big Easy and always return to fine dining at Arnaud’s Restaurant in the French Quarter. The 90-year-old landmark features Creole fare and a reputation that never disappoints. Start with gulf shrimp covered in spicy Remoulade sauce, teetering at the edge of too hot.

Then I move on to Pommes Souffle, a house specialty served as an appetizer or a side. The dish is an extraordinary rendition of French fries, light as helium-filled pillows. The fluffiness comes from frying the potatoes twice. They end up looking like fat toddler fingers and are served along with Bearnaise sauce.

Dinner suggestions include Trout Almandine, Pompano en Croute, and Roast Louisiana Quail Elzey (filled with Foie Gras mousse or Filet Charlemond) with more Bearnaise sauce. Last year, I chose Veal Tournedos. They arrived covered in wild mushroom gravy and simply melted as they encircled my tongue.

Dessert is the finest show in the city (and, needless to say, there are many competing shows). Cafe Brulot requires an expert, and the headwaiter performs the flaming touch. An orange is peeled in one intact piece and then studded with cloves. A brandy mixture is heated then ignited and slowly poured down the spiraling peel into the bowl, which another waiter fills with chicory coffee. The drink, prepared tableside, slides down so smooth that there is no need for dessert. But if you are inclined (and I was), Bananas Foster can’t be topped.

During my yearly visit, I must also feast on a few beignets at Cafe du Monde, the famous, no-frills coffeehouse/cafe. The beignets, similar to doughnuts, are rectangular (no holes) and doused in mounds of powdered sugar. They coat everyone’s fingers and clothes but are, unquestionably, worth the whitewash. You never know who (Rod Stewart) or what you will see there. One year a lady clad only in body paint sat down to order!

I’ll find time to squeeze into Pat O’Brien’s, home of the famous hurricane–a powerful fruit punch. Lesson learned —Sip, don’t drink, or your head will be filled with a storm. Do join the friendly crowd and sing along with the lively dueling pianos.

Celebration time in New Orleans surely puts an end to dieting. I’ll indulge decadent food and when Ash Wednesday arrives, start to eat healthy again.