Category Archives: Land Adventures

Jamestown – Where America Took Root

ByLanderseaAmerica250 – Post 2

The story of America doesn’t begin with July 4, 1776. It starts earlier, much earlier. My previous blog post addressed the site of the first settlement on Roanoke Island, NC. This time we are deep in the swamplands of Virginia, where 104 men and boys stepped ashore in 1607 and built a wooden fort. That place was Jamestown.

Unlike the doomed Lost Colony of Roanoke, Jamestown endured. Barely. Sponsored by the Virginia Company of London, the settlers came in search of profit: gold, silk, and trade. Instead, they met disease, starvation, and tension with the powerful Powhatan Confederacy.

I found the route they took surprising, so share it here: The three ships that carried the first group of settlers to Jamestown in 1607—Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery—departed from London on December 20, 1606, under the command of Captain Christopher Newport. They sailed down the Thames, paused at Blackwall for final preparations, then headed to sea. After leaving England, they stopped at the Downs (an anchorage off the Kent coast), continued via the Canary Islands and the Caribbean, and sighted land at Cape Henry on April 26, 1607. The party chose Jamestown Island for their fort on May 14, 1607.

Captain John Smith

Captain John Smith quickly emerged as one of Jamestown’s most effective leaders. Amid food shortages, disease, and constant strain with Powhatan towns, he enforced a strict “he who does not work, shall not eat” policy that helped keep the colony alive. Smith is also remembered for his encounters with the Powhatan people, especially the famous story of his dramatic rescue by Chief Powhatan’s daughter, Pocahontas. Many historians believe the episode was a ritual or later embellished, but what matters for Jamestown’s survival is that Smith negotiated for corn, mapped the rivers, and kept dialogue open. {Smith leaves Virginia in late 1609 after a gunpowder accident, and the colony soon spiraled into the Starving Time.)

The Virginia Company packed the next wave in 1608 with skilled specialists—refiners, apothecaries, a jeweler, a blacksmith, a gunner, even a perfumer—hoping that industries such as glassmaking, metalworking, and naval storeswould make Virginia a worthwhile investment. Within days, the fort burned, but the colony now had craftspeople to rebuild.

Another supply followed in autumn 1608 (aboard Mary and Margaret), bringing roughly 70 newcomers, including the first two English women, Mistress Forrest and her maid Anne Burras, whose marriage to carpenter John Laydon became Jamestown’s first wedding. This convoy also delivered eight German/Polish “glasse-men,” the nucleus of America’s first English industrial trial at the Jamestown glasshouse.

Took this photo standing on the upper deck of one of the recreated ships at Jamestown. ©Bylandersea

The big push, the Third Supply, left in June 1609: nine ships with 500–600 people and ample livestock and gear. The flagship Sea Venture wrecked on Bermuda, splitting the fleet; the colonists who did reach Virginia entered into the Starving Time of 1609–1610, when only about 60 of some 500 survived. The Bermuda castaways (over 100) finally reached Jamestown in May 1610, found the scene “lamentable,” and started to evacuate until Lord De La Warr arrived on June 10, 1610. He brought supplies and reinforcements and ordered everyone back to work. Relief deepened with the planting of tobacco by John Rolfe, which became Virginia’s cash crop.

Recovery continued in 1611, when Sir Thomas Dale landed with about 300 soldiers, cattle, and provisions. Dale expanded beyond the fort, founding Henricus (now Henricus Historical Park in Chester, VA) and pushed farming and discipline that finally stabilized the population.

A few years later, Pocahontas, baptized as Rebecca while living among the English, married tobacco planter John Rolfe on April 1614 at Jamestown, likely officiated by Rev. Richard Bucke. Their union ushered in several years of relative calm often called the Peace of Pocahontas.

“George Spohni, The wedding of Pocahontas with John Rolfe, 1867. Library of Congress (public domain).”

Jamestown Rediscovery

For decades, historians believed that the 1607 English settlement in Jamestown, Virginia, lay underwater in the James River. In 1994, under the leadership of Dr. William Kelso of the Jamestown Rediscovery project, an archeological dig was launched in hopes of locating the assumed lost fort. Within three archeological seasons, Kelso and his team uncovered enough evidence to prove the remains of James Fort existed on dry land. Better yet, the search led them near the remains of the 17th-century church tower and to the graves of four founders.

Findings from the Jamestown Rediscovery digs. ©Bylandersea

This discovery became exciting news about America’s birthplace and renewed interest in the Jamestown story. Today, visitors to Jamestown Settlement begin their experience at the high-tech visitor center. I was immediately impressed with the museum’s size, scope, and elaborate state-of-the-art interactive displays. A 4-D film provides an overview of Jamestown’s beginnings. Depending on your interest, you’ll need a minimum of 30 minutes, while those wanting to learn more could spend several hours.

Display within the Museum and Visitor Center at Jamestown Settlement. ©Bylandersea
Museum showcases at Jamestown Settlement Visitor Center. ©Bylandersea

After you tour the museum, head outside to see the recreated Paspahegh town or Powhatan Indian Village. This area reflects the typical daily life of the Virginia tribe. Within the wooded clearing, see reed-covered houses dotted with cooking circles, a dugout canoe, and a ceremonial circle. Learn about the culture of the Indigenous people from costumed interpreters. Personalities like Captain John Smith, John Rolfe, Powhatan, and Pocahontas lived here.

A costumed interpreter demonstrates daily life activities and answers visitor questions. ©Bylandersea

The Indian reserve leads down to the river’s edge, where docked replicas of the ships, the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery await. Take the time to go aboard and imagine how the original 104 voyagers spent their cramped days and nights aboard the small vessels.

Be sure to go aboard the replica ships tied to the dock. ©Bylandersea

Another walkway leads to the reconstructed triangular-shaped James Fort, which encloses multiple wooden buildings and offers more costumed interpreters. Life within the fort wasn’t easy, but here, free, enslaved, and indentured people mixed during their struggles with early colonization.

To complete your tour, visitors must drive a short distance to Jamestowne Island, a National Park Historic landmark and site of exciting ongoing archeological digs. There, you’ll find an outline of the original fort, a statue of John Smith near the shoreline, and likely working archeologists. The Archaearium Museum showcases relics from the 1607-1624 Virginia Company period.

Statue of Captain John Smith and the 1608 church at Historic Jamestowne Settlement.
©Bylandersea

You’ll also see the site of the original 1608 church, named one of 2010’s 10 most significant archaeological discoveries in the world by Archaeology Magazine. The church was where Chief Powhatan’s daughter Pocahontas married John Rolfe on April 5, 1614.

In 1619, the church was the site of an important and historic series of meetings: those of the first elected legislative body in America, the House of Burgesses in the Virginia General Assembly. Tragically, that same year marked the arrival of the first enslaved Africans—ushering in a legacy of inequality that would shape the nation’s future.

Unfortunately, the church burned during Bacon’s Rebellion in 1676. Repairs were made, and the church continued to serve until approximately 1750.

Today, the site includes the remains of the 17th-century tower. While ten feet of its height and the original nave were lost, preservation groups stepped in. They erected a new church for the settlement’s 300th anniversary with glass panels to see the original foundations.

Interior of the reconstructed first church.

When you visit Jamestown, you witness the triumphs and contradictions of America’s beginnings, where ideals of liberty stood alongside forced labor, and survival came through adaptation and grit.

Do You Know: Captain John Smith (1580–1631)

John Smith, c.1617. National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution (CC0).”


Captain John Smith was an English soldier, explorer, and author whose leadership proved crucial to the survival of Jamestown. Born in Lincolnshire, England, Smith led an adventurous life as a soldier of fortune across Europe and the Near East before joining the Virginia Company’s 1606 expedition to the New World.


Arriving in 1607, Smith quickly emerged as one of Jamestown’s most effective leaders. Amid food shortages, disease, and tense relations with Indigenous peoples, he enforced a strict “he who does not work, shall not eat” policy that helped sustain the struggling colony. Smith is also remembered for his interactions with the Powhatan Confederacy, particularly the story—likely embellished—of his dramatic rescue by Powhatan’s daughter, Pocahontas.


In 1608–1609, Smith undertook extensive mapping of the Chesapeake Bay and its rivers, producing detailed charts that guided future explorers and settlers. Injured in a gunpowder accident in 1609, he returned to England but continued to promote colonization through his writings, which offered vivid descriptions of the New World and its peoples.


Smith’s blend of disciplined leadership, exploration, and self-promotion made him a central figure in the early history of Virginia and the broader English colonial enterprise. His legacy endures in American folklore, maps, and the ongoing story of Jamestown.

Do You Know? – Pocahontas

“Simon van de Passe, Pocahontas, 1616. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.”


Most visitors associate Jamestown with Pocahontas, but the real story is richer and more complex than the legend. Born Amonute and later called Matoaka, she was the daughter of Wahunsenacawh (Chief Powhatan). In 1607–08, she was about 10–12 years old and sometimes visited the English fort, bringing food and messages. The famous “rescue” of Captain John Smith may have been a symbolic ritual rather than a literal life-saving act.


Pocahontas later married John Rolfe, a colonist who pioneered tobacco cultivation, and converted to Christianity as Rebecca Rolfe. In 1616 she traveled to England as a symbol of the Powhatan–English alliance, where she met King James I and Queen Anne. She died in 1617 at Gravesend, England around age 21.


Her life bridges two worlds and remains a powerful story of cultural encounter and transformation at the beginning of English America.

Portrait of Pocahontas engraved in 1616, wearing European dress and ruff

Trivia Tidbit – Pocahontas & First Lady Edith Bolling Wilson


First Lady Edith Bolling Wilson (1872–1961), the second wife of President Woodrow Wilson, traced her family lineage back to Pocahontas. Through her father’s side, she was a direct descendant of Pocahontas and John Rolfe’s son, Thomas Rolfe. This connection made Edith one of several prominent Virginians who proudly claimed Powhatan heritage and gave a First Lady of the United States a living tie to Jamestown’s most famous figure.

You can learn more about Edith Bolling Wilson at her Museum in her hometown of Wytheville, Virginia. I found this unexpected connection totally fascinating. Goodness! You never know what you will learn through your travels.

Arrival Guide: Visiting Jamestown


Getting There
Jamestown sits on the banks of the James River, just south of Williamsburg, Virginia. Visitors typically drive in via the Colonial Parkway, a scenic, tree-lined route connecting Yorktown, Williamsburg, and Jamestown. It’s about an hour from Richmond and roughly 2½ hours from Washington, D.C.


Two Distinct Experiences

Jamestown is actually two complementary sites:

Historic Jamestowne (National Park Service/Preservation Virginia)
This is the actual location of the 1607 English fort. You can talk with park rangers, see ongoing archaeology at the original fort site, the church tower, artifacts at the Archaearium, and the glasshouse.

The Archaearium, at Historic Jamestown contains many artifacts and displays from the archeological dig. ©Bylandersea

Jamestown Settlement (Virginia’s Museum of 17th-Century Virginia
Located nearby, this living history museum offers full-scale re-creations of the James Fort, Powhatan Indian village, and the three ships that brought the settlers—the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery. Costumed interpreters bring early 17th-century Virginia to life.
Both sites are worth visiting for a complete picture of Jamestown’s story. You can do them in one long day, but two days allows a more relaxed pace.

Parking: Both sites offer free parking lots close to the entrance.

A look at the Powhatan Indian Village at the Jamestown Settlement. ©Bylandersea


A building in the recreated Jamestown Fort Settlement. ©Bylandersea

Hours & Admission
• Historic Jamestowne: Open daily, generally 9 a.m.–5 p.m. (check seasonal hours). Requires both a National Park Service entrance fee and a Preservation Virginia ticket, usually bundled at the gate.
• Jamestown Settlement: Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. with a separate admission fee. Discounts often available for combo tickets with the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown,

Costumed Interpreter demonstrates the firing of a rifle. ©Bylandersea



Insider Tips
Combo Ticket: If you plan to see both sites (highly recommended), check for combination passes to save money.
Talk to the Archaeologists: At Historic Jamestowne, interpreters and archaeologists often share their latest finds right on the dig site.
Allow Time for the Glasshouse: The working glassblowing demonstration at Historic Jamestowne shows a trade practiced by colonists as early as 1608.
Photography: Morning or late afternoon light is ideal for capturing the reconstructed ships and fort palisades.


Two Nights in Timeless Toledo: A Hilltop Journey Through History

Just 30 minutes from Madrid, historic Toledo feels like stepping back into medieval Spain. With two nights to explore the tiny town, my travel buddy and I discovered soaring cathedrals, stone bridges, ancient streets, and unforgettable scenic hilltop views. This city makes a photographer’s paradise at any time of the day. (So, yes. I probably added too many photos to this blog post.)

The plaza in front of the Toledo is typically full of tourists.

Arrival by Train: A Grand Entrance

Our journey began aboard the AVE high-speed train from Madrid (just 30 minutes). We arrived at Toledo’s gorgeous Mudéjar-style station, a blend of Islamic (Moorish) artistic traditions with Christian Gothic, Romanesque, and later Renaissance elements. From the moment you step off the train you are greeted by arched windows, decorative tiles, and a high clock tower. I immediately fell under the spell of medieval Toledo. 

The Mudéjar-style train station greets travelers in Toledo.
The train station in Toledo is anything but ordinary.

📍 Getting there tip: Book AVE tickets early for the best prices.

First impressions

A short taxi ride brought us into Toledo’s old town, a tangled web of very narrow cobbled lanes perched above the Tagus River. The streets are so tight that many cars must pull in their side-view mirrors. 

We checked into Hotel Santa Isabel, housed in a 15th-century nobleman’s home featuring preserved architecture, exposed wooden ceilings, balconies, and a panoramic rooftop terrace with views of the cathedral- but very affordable. No sooner did we drop our bags, then we went  to check out the terrace views. They are incredibly wonderful, and the terrace makes an ideal spot for an afternoon drink.  

Hotel Santa Iabel offers a terrace with wonderful city views.
Terrace view from Hotel Santa Isabel. ©Bylandersea

The hotel lies just steps from the cathedral in Plaza del Ayuntamiento, a stately square framed by City Hall and the Archbishop’s Palace. We wandered through the medieval streets, stumbling upon religious statuary, quiet courtyards, and artisan shops. What we didn’t find as easily as expected, was the entrance to the cathedral 

We finally managed to secure tickets and the audio guide, though both were a challenge, but worth it.  Officially the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo is one of Spain’s most magnificent and second largest churches. It opens with a soaring Gothic nave. The main altar, made from wood and covered in gold leaf, is an explosion of symbolism. We listened for maybe ten minutes to the audio guide reveal the story behind the tiered details.

We moved on to the overwhelming white marble baroque style altar with an amazing oculus that was cut into the ceiling to allow natural sunlight in. To my surprise this addition was created between 1729-1732 by Narciso Tomé and his four sons (two architects, one painter, and one sculptor). As you can see in the photo, the oculus includes sculpture and paintings. 

We meandered into a vibrant chapter room and then a grand hall full of El Greco masterpieces. El Greco (1541–1614), was a master painter, sculptor, and architect known for his dramatic, elongated figures and expressive use of color. He lived much of his life in Toledo. 

Stunning artwork in the Chapter Room,
The colorful paintings in the chapter room of the Toledo Cathedral. ©Bylandersea
The gallery in the Toledo Cathedral contains many El Greco’s among others. ©Bylandersea

We spent about two and a half hours inside also seeing the intricate choir stalls and the shimmering gold Monstrance of Arfe, created from 1515-1523. The towering gem stands over 10 feet tall and is crafted from over 77 pounds of silver and gold, much of it believed to come from the first shipment of precious metals brought from the New World.

The work is a two-tiered Gothic temple, richly decorated with spires, pinnacles, columns, and intricate figures of saints and angels. The entire structure holds the consecrated Host during the feast of Corpus Christi, when it is carried through the streets of Toledo in a grand procession. A tradition that continues today. It remains one of the finest examples of Spanish ecclesiastical goldsmithing and a symbol of the city’s religious and artistic heritage.

The golden Monstrance of Arfe in the Toledo Cathedral ©Bylandersea

Overwhelmed by all we this art and architecture in the cathedral, we stopped for a drink and then returned to our room for a short rest. Dinner in Spain is always late (compared to American meal times), however we enjoyed some early dining at La Taberna Asturiana Zapico.  Afterward, I managed to capture photos of the late sunset from the hotel terrace. 

Tapas dinner in Toledo. ©Bylandersea
Sunset on the Terrace. ©Bylandersea

Toledo’s Crown Jewels

The next day we signed up for a guided tour that included a bracelet for entry to seven sites. We met our guide at Zocodover Square, the lively central business plaza that once served as a bustling market. Here we saw the exterior of the Alcázar, a fortress that has seen Roman, Moorish, and Spanish military history. Now it’s home to the Army Museum, but we chose to skip the military fortress. 

Toledo Alcazar
The Alcazar in Toledo sits high above the town. ©Bylandersea

Our guide began by explaining why this city was known as the “City of Three Cultures,” a place where Christian, Muslim, and Jewish influences interwove to create something uniquely Spanish. In 1986, Toledo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. The UNESCO World Heritage website states, “Toledo is the repository of more than 2,000 years of history.” This stems from the fact that it was an important city first to the Romans, then to the Visigoths, then the Emirate of Cordoba, then the Christian kingdoms who opposed the Moors and made it an imperial city for a time.

Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes.

We then walked across the historic district, past the cathedral, several alleyways, and up to an overlook area in the former Jewish Quarter. We went on into the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes.

This beautiful church was begun in 1477 by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella to be their final resting place. However, they later chose to be buried in Granada, after the Reconquista. The monastery’s design is considered to be a masterpiece of Spanish Gothic architecture and I loved the delicate stone detail and the two-storied cloister. I found this site a peaceful place. 

Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca

Next we stopped in at the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca, a building with an unusual history. The Synagogue tells a complex story of faith and cultural exchange. Built in 1180, it is considered one of the oldest surviving synagogues in Europe, yet its architecture is distinctly Mudejar, crafted by Muslim artisans under Christian rule for the Jewish community—another example of  the city’s coexistence of three faiths. 

Inside, rows of graceful white stone horseshoe arches supported by octagonal pillars create a mesmerizing effect. The interior appears more of a mosque than a typical synagogue. But in the 15th century, the building was converted into a church, renamed in honor of the Virgin Mary, reflecting the religious upheaval and eventual expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492. Today, Santa María la Blanca highlights the shifting story of Spanish history.

Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca
Horseshoe Arches in the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca. ©Bylandersea

Church of Santo Tomé

Our guide next led us into the modest Church of Santo Tomé, where one of Spain’s greatest artistic treasures awaits—El Greco’s masterpiece, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz. Tucked into a side chapel of this 14th-century church, the immense canvas captures a legendary miracle said to have occurred in 1323, when Saints Stephen and Augustine descended from heaven to bury the devout nobleman Don Gonzalo Ruiz de Toledo. El Greco’s vivid, swirling composition masterfully blends a heavenly vision with earthly realism. It contains portraits of Toledo’s elite—possibly including the artist himself—painted alongside angels and saints. 

I’d heard about the painting in art history class, but seeing it in person makes a huge difference. It’s a stunning beauty with vivid colors and fine brush strokes with intricate details. This is a piece of art that could be studied for hours. Do not miss it if you get to Toledo. 

Our tour ended there, so Judy and I stopped for lunch. On the way back to our hotel,  we decided to go into Church of El Salvador, more an archeological site with pillars and Roman mosaics

Church of the Jesuits

We then went on to the Church of the Jesuits to climb its twin towers for city views,  as recommended by our guide. 

Rising proudly above Toledo’s skyline, the twin towers of the Iglesia de San Ildefonso, also known as the Jesuit Church, offer one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the city. Built between the 17th and 18th centuries in honor of San Ildefonso, Toledo’s patron saint. This grand Baroque-style church is often overlooked by tourists rushing to the cathedral. (This is why you need two days.)

Inside, visitors are treated to elegant chapels, richly adorned altarpieces, and soaring vaulted ceilings.The real highlight, however, is the climb to the top. A series of winding stairs leads to an enclosed view. Then step onto the open-air terrace between the towers, where you’re rewarded with a sweeping panorama of Toledo’s tiled rooftops, the majestic Alcázar, the Cathedral spire, and the winding Tagus River. 

We ran out of time and did not visit Mosque of Cristo de la Luz or the Royal College of Noble Maidens. More sadly, we missed the small, but I understand impressive, El Greco Museum. As a avid photographer, I needed more time to get down and photograph the stone bridges and city gates.

🧭 Tips for Using the Bracelet:

  • Where to buy: Any of the 7 included sites
  • How to use: Wear the bracelet for entry—no need to carry tickets
  • Time needed: One full day to leisurely visit all sites, though many split it into two days
  • Best order: Start with Santo Tomé and San Juan de los Reyes 

Parador de Toledo: A Farewell Dinner with a View

For a special treat,  we hired a taxi to take us up  the Parador de Toledo on the “Hill of the Emperor.” The hotel terrace overlooks the entire city—cathedral, river, and rooftops glowing at golden hour. It’s the perfect WOW vantage point to appreciate the city’s layered history and to pause for a photo high above the medieval maze.

View of Toledo from the Paradoe.
I waited a long time for this view. It could never disappoint. ©Bylandersea
Toledo at twilight
Twilight view of Toledo from the Parador on the hill. ©Bylandersea

Regional cuisine—grilled fish, venison in red wine sauce, and a bold Tempranillo wine—made the perfect finale to our hilltop escape. We skipped the local dessert specialty, almondy marzipan, as neither of us are fans. We asked our return taxi driver to drop us at the Cathedral Plaza, so we could capture nighttime views and reflections. One of the best reasons to spend a night in Toledo is the absence of crowds.  When all the day-trippers leave, the city becomes even more magical.  

🍷 Tip: Make dinner reservations in advance. 

Cathedral Square in Toledo is quiet at night. ©Bylandersea

Final Thoughts

Although, we spent two nights in Toledo, we really had only a day and a half to tour as we arrived on a one o’clock train. The hours wizzed by  too fast. The city offers a feast for the curious soul. I left longing to return—with even more time to wander its winding lanes.

I’d recommend three nights for photographers, if possible. That would allow for a leisurely exploration of the town and some time to shoot the amazing skyline from different locations. 

Tips for Shoppers: Toledo is world-famous for damascene metalwork (gold inlay into steel) and sword making. Many shops offer affordable damascene jewelry and miniature swords, perfect souvenirs.

Damascene metalwork and steel products are popular with tourists.

Why Visit the Basilica of Saint Anthony in Padua

In the heart of Padua, a city celebrated for its university and Renaissance masterpieces, I found a sanctuary of immense spiritual and artistic significance: the Basilica of Saint Anthony (Basilica di Sant’Antonio di Padova). Pilgrims and art lovers alike journey here, drawn not only by the stunning blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Byzantine architecture, but by the enduring legacy of the beloved saint within.

I approached the basilica from the bustling Piazza del Santo, where the bronze equestrian statue of Gattamelata, created by Donatello, commands attention. It’s an extraordinary piece of Renaissance sculpture, one of the earliest and most influential equestrian statues since antiquity. But even that masterwork can’t compete with the sprawling, domed silhouette of the basilica itself. Byzantine domes, Gothic spires, and Romanesque touches rise together like a fusion of the faiths.

Basilica of Saint Anthony
The entrance to the Basilica of Saint Anthony in Padua ©Bylandersea.
Continue reading Why Visit the Basilica of Saint Anthony in Padua