Whether I’m traveling abroad or exploring my home state, I find something comforting about revisiting a place. Familiar landmarks, like Cinderella’s Castle at Disney World, the Eiffel Tower or the Colosseum in Rome can evoke a wave of nostalgia. They bring back vivid memories of past visits. Of course, changes are inevitable—sometimes enhancing the experience, other times altering it in unexpected ways. Regardless, returning always offers the opportunity for new memories, especially when revisiting an international destination.
In 2016, I had my first encounter with Istanbul, a city rich in history and culture. Now officially spelled “Türkiye” instead of “Turkey,” the country continues to evolve. Recently, I returned to Istanbul and revisited three historical monuments, each offering a fresh perspective. Among them, the Hagia Sophia stood out with its profound transformation.
Hagia Sophia: A Living Testament to Change
Hagia Sophia is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, originally constructed as a cathedral in 537 AD under Emperor Justinian I. The UNESCO World Heritage Site features four minarets, a stunning dome and intricate mosaics. Over the centuries, it served as a church, a mosque, and a museum.
In 2020, however, Türkiye’s President Erdoğan and the Council of State decided to convert Hagia Sophia back into a mosque. This marked a significant shift in its identity. For nearly 900 years, it was a Christian cathedral until the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, after which it became a mosque. In 1935, as part of Mustafa Atatürk’s secularist reforms, it was turned into a museum.
Today, Hagia Sophia serves as an active place for Muslim worship while remaining accessible to visitors. Changes are immediately evident: the iconic Byzantine mosaics of Jesus and Mary are veiled during prayers, and soft green carpets now cover the marble floors. Unlike my previous visit, the ground level is no longer open to all visitors, a change I found disappointing. In 2016, I recall entering a massive doorway and standing in awe beneath an immense dome, overwhelmed by its magnificence and history. During my recent trip, I followed a path directly to the balcony level, where I looked down at the breathtaking interior. While the view from above was still mesmerizing, I missed the immersive experience of standing beneath the dome’s grandeur.
Despite these changes, Hagia Sophia’s historical significance remains intact. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside prayer times. But I must admit, I prefer its former role as a global museum.
New Hagia Sophia History & Experience Museum
I should also mention that I visited the separate building to tour the new Hagia Sophia History and Experience Museum. It is billed as ,”an immersive journey into the rich history and architectural splendor of the Hagia Sophia.”
Visitors walk through a series of rooms seeing high-quality visuals, soundscapes, and ultra-modern screen technologies. I found these somewhat confusing and rushed. I wished I could have sat and watched the entire presentation from a seat. Still, I did like the part where a 3D display showed an up-close examination of architectural features and how they changed over the centuries. If I were recommending tourist attractions to another traveler, I would say skip this new museum. There’s so many fabulous treasures to see in this city.
Basilica Cistern: Where History Meets Innovation
One of my favorite attractions visited in 2016 was the Basilica Cistern, an illuminated underground wonder beneath Istanbul’s bustling streets. Upon my return, I discovered that the site had also undergone a transformation. A restoration project from 2017 to 2022 revitalized this subterranean marvel, making it safer and more accessible. New, sturdy walkways replaced the older paths, allowing visitors to explore the 336 ancient marble and granite columns with ease.
Modern LED lighting now enhances the cistern’s ethereal quality, casting enchanting shadows and reflections. Contemporary art installations float in its shallow waters, blending modern creativity with the past. While these additions are lovely, I found myself nostalgic for the original, simpler design – 12 rows and 28 columns.
The iconic and unforgettable Medusa heads have been cleaned and preserved. They appeared mysterious and green during my first visit, likely due to algae or mold, but now they shine in a cream-colored hue. The addition of a metallic Medusa statue, with its dramatic shadow play, offered a delightful surprise. I really liked it, however, I wish the lighting on the statue remained constant instead of cycling on and off.
Topkapi Palace: A Glimpse into Ottoman Elegance
Topkapi Palace, once the heart of Ottoman power, continues to captivate visitors with its grandeur. Recent restorations have opened sections of the sprawling complex that were previously inaccessible. Visitors can now explore newly unveiled courtyards, though some areas that were once open now require separate tickets.
The highlight of my brief visit was the refurbished Imperial Treasury, where I finally saw the famed Topkapi emerald dagger. Fans of the Peter Ustinov movie Topkapi, which dramatizes a heist involving the dagger, will appreciate the cinematic connection. I also enjoyed seeing some of the vintage clothing along with the jewels.
Other City Sites
I did not have time to revisit the beautiful Blue Mosque or see the fantastic Byzantine mosaics in the 16th-century Chora Church. I would highly recommend those to first-time visitors. I also love the blend of aromas and the colorful displays in the Spice Market, a site I revisited and one that should not be missed. And don’t pass up a cruise on the Bosporus, a chance to touch both the continent of Europe and Asia.
Revisiting Istanbul was certainly worthwhile as I was there to attend a convention, yet the trip reminded me that changes are an integral part of any journey.
