A Sweet Stay at Sourwood Inn

A drive to Asheville, North Carolina takes seven hours from my home, but I had a family wedding to attend. The travel writer in me decided to go two days early and explore the city as I’d never been there before. The local Tourism Board (ExploreAsheville.com) arranged for a two-night stay at the Sourwood Inn. Thank you for that sweet treat.

 

Sourwood Inn from driveway
Sourwood Inn from driveway

Sourwood Inn is a hidden jewel; I passed it by twice before locating the entrance off the Blue Ridge Parkway and Elk Mountain Scenic Highway. That was after owner Susan Curtis warned me about the ten miles of winding roads I’d encounter getting there. Major hairpin turns and slow speeds, but once you find it, your cares drift away.

Main Lobby of the Sourwood Inn.
Main Lobby of the Sourwood Inn.

The twelve-room retreat sits on one hundred acres of mountainous terrain at 3200 feet elevation, however, just 15-20 minutes from downtown Asheville. The bedrooms (most have king-sized beds, mine had two Queens) are spacious and airy, and each comes with a fireplace stacked with logs and kindling. All you have to do is strike a match. The extra large bathrooms include a shower plus separate Jacuzzi tub with a large window that provides no worries secluded views. Each room also has an outdoor balcony overlooking the woods becoming an ideal spot for an afternoon cocktail or glass of wine. Guests can also book the Sassafras Cabin, a small suite nestled in the woods a hundred yards from the main inn.

Corner fireplace in my guest room, Sourwood Inn.
Corner fireplace in my guest room, Sourwood Inn.

I arrived in time for afternoon refreshments; they are placed in the lobby every day. You are welcome to take them back to your room or enjoy with other guests.

The common areas like the lobby, library, and sitting rooms are serenely inviting and homey. I’d call the decor refined rustic, indeed not that overly cutesy country stuff. Downstairs is a game room with a television, the only one at the Inn.

Warning, there is no Internet or television in the guestrooms. My Smartphone got access, but some do not. Sourwood was designed to be a relaxing getaway, so indulge yourself and escape the high-tech world.

Afternoon at Sourwood Inn.
Afternoon at Sourwood Inn.

Full breakfasts are included in a stay and mine were exceptionally tasty. Everything is homemade, and the breads are especially yummy. You may bring wine, beer or liquor for your enjoyment. The chef prepares dinner on selected nights, usually Thursday through Sunday by reservation only. Don’t miss these; they are bargain priced three-course gourmet meals from a fabulous cook.

If you aren’t out participating in Asheville’s array of outdoor activities like biking, hiking, camping, yoga, kayaking, and fishing, you can stay at Sourwood property and play badminton, croquet and use over two miles of mountainous trails.  Asheville also offers an endless list of attractions like fine dining, spas, micro-breweries and the world famous Biltmore Estate.

Jeff , the Falconer and his Hawk
Jeff , the Falconer and his Hawk

Jeff Curtis, husband and co-owner at Sourwood, has a love affair with the falconry and also loves to share his passion. My niece, Sarah, joined me the second night of my stay, and she and I had an entertaining and educational morning meeting Jeff and two of his hawks. We first were introduced to Greenman, a Red-Tail Hawk, who had a hood on its head. (He’s named after a local micro-brew.) Greenman was a newly acquired Raptor and just getting used to working with people. Jeff explained how the hawks are trained and later released if captured as a wild bird. Those raised in captivity can be trained and kept for life. Falconry requires a major time commitment including finding a sponsor and apprenticing with a Master. Keepers must also pass inspections.

Sarah holds a hooded Hawk
Sarah holds a hooded Hawk

Jeff allowed Sarah and I the chance to don a gauntlet and hold the Hawks on our arm. They are magnificent creatures and an encounter like this makes you appreciate the species all the more. Make an appointment to meet Jeff and his hawks or hire him for a hawk walk. He also gives hands-on demonstrations for groups, sometimes at the Biltmore.

Vibrant skyline at sunrise Courtesy of Asheville CVB.
Vibrant skyline at sunrise Courtesy of Asheville CVB.

Don’t leave Sourwood before chatting with Susan Curtis, if you missed her at check-in. She is one of he loveliest Southern ladies ever. Asheville and Sourwood are the kind of place you long to revisit. In fact, Susan said 80% of their business comes from returning guests. Those numbers reinforce my opinion; the Sourwood Inn is a sweet place to stay.

 

Sourwood Inn
810 Elk Mountain Highway
Asheville, NC 28804
828 255 0690

A Rhubarb at Rhubard: Asheville, NC

Downtown Asheville, NC buzzes with activity like a university campus on graduation day. From fancy dress to cutoffs and tees, folks dine in small eateries serving up gourmet and down-home dishes. Musicians serenade on street corners adding a rhythmic beat to the air. And, outdoor enthusiasts hustle up mountainous roads: bicycling, jogging, hiking while others practice yoga in the plaza. Cheers to this happening crossroads where visitors and locals thrive on the eclectic hum.

Yoga in the Plaza
Yoga in the Plaza
Continue reading A Rhubarb at Rhubard: Asheville, NC

Chincoteague Pony Roundup on the Eastern Shore

Drawn by oysters and wild ponies, not to mention uncrowded beaches, Virginia’s Eastern Shore becomes a solid choice for a summer getaway. The peninsula includes 23 undeveloped barrier islands and a chance to experience the engineering marvel of the 23-mile long Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel.

 

I approached from the Norfolk area after visiting Williamsburg, Yorktown and Jamestown, known as the Historic Triangle. Driving through the Bay Bridge-Tunnel, built from 1960-64, deposits you onto a road that stretches like a spine from Cape Charles in the south to Assateague Island to the north. The top half of Assateague belongs to Maryland.
Chincoteague is the most popular destination on the Peninsula and must be doing something right because the spot has won happiest town, friendliest seaside town and other lifestyle awards over the years. The plethora of ice cream stands may help the voting. My cone from the Island Creamery earned rave reviews.

The town of Chincoteague on Virginia's Eastern Shore
The town of Chincoteague on Virginia’s Eastern Shore

If you grew up on Newberry Award-winner Marguerite Henry’s books and fell in Love with “Misty of Chincoteague,” the Museum of Chincoteague will be a must stop. The famed horse stands as a stuffed display with Stormy, her third and last foal. The Museum isn’t much more than a photo op and a quirky one at that, but Misty fans shouldn’t skip. Very doable with kids.

Debi meets Misty of Chincoteague
Debi meets Misty of Chincoteague

 

Oysters At Don's Seafood
Oysters At Don’s Seafood

Oysters from the Eastern Shore also garner extraordinary kudos. Don’s Seafood is my recommendation. The oysters served at Don’s are grown at Tom’s Cove Aqua Farms based on the island.
To see the wild ponies, you need to visit the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Stop by the Assateague Island National Seashore Visitors Center at Little Toms Cove, and then drive along the Wildlife Loop Road. From there, hopefully, you’ll catch a glimpse of the ponies on Assateague Island.

Wild Ponies on Assateague Island
Wild Ponies on Assateague Island

The popular myth is that the wild horses washed ashore from a capsized Spanish galleon, but genetics indicates they were of domestic stock and were placed on the islands to escape a livestock tax. The ponies proved tough enough to survive scorching heat, abundant insects, stormy weather and poor quality food.

 

Festival and Auction Grounds
Carnival and Auction Grounds

I had the opportunity to meet Denise Bowden, the first woman accepted into the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company, and now director of Public Relations. She explained that the fire company owns and cares for over 150 Virginia-bred but free roaming horses that produce from 60-90 foals per year. According to Denise, the Chincoteague firemen have auctioned off young ponies as a way to control the size of the herd since the early 1940’s. The money is used to purchase and maintain firehouse equipment. Today the average price for a pony at auction runs around $2,700.

Misty Book Cover
Misty Book Cover

Misty of Chincoteague
Misty of Chincoteaague in the Museum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The annual roundup is an immense event for the little town. The population of 3,000 grows to over 50,000 with visitors. The calendar calls for the swim from Assateague to Chincoteague, Pony Penning, auction and carnival on the last consecutive Tuesday and Wednesday of July. The preliminaries – rounding up the herds, walking them to the assembly area and checking the ponies for health fills Saturday through Tuesday. The swim takes place on Wednesday, this year the date is July 29, 2015. The auction runs on Thursday. On Friday, the remaining herd swims back to Assateague for another year.
Make reservations early! www.esvatourism.org