A fall trip to London would be smashing. Europe’s largest city has enough to keep tourists busy for months. But, what if you only have time to visit one site? Which would it be? Westminster Abbey, Big Ben and the House of Parliament, the British Museum or the Tower of London? I’d pick the Tower of London and in fact, highly recommend returning on every trip. Sounds trite but the UNESCO World Heritage site truly offers something of significance for most everyone.
Want history and architecture? William the Conqueror began work on the Tower shortly after he won his crown in 1066 . That’s nearly a thousand years ago. He wanted to protect his important London base. Over the centuries, the stronghold evolved into a symbol of English royalty.
Today, visitors find a complex of castles, fortifications, courtyards and buildings including the famous White Tower started back in 1078. The legendary Bloody Tower held two imprisoned princes, sons of Edward IV, who were likely murdered by Richard III. Stroll around to the former scaffold grounds where notorious beheadings took place, including those of Queen Anne Boleyn and Sir Thomas Moore.
Scaffold Site
Bird lovers enjoy the ravens who are guaranteed to be on the Tower Green. Legend says the kingdom will fall if they desert the property. Shh, the ravens wings are clipped.
The fortress acted not just as a royal residence and prison, but as a treasury and armory. Now a fantastic assemblage of medieval weapons and royal armor are exhibited. Those interested in religion are drawn to the simple Chapel of St. John, the oldest church in London, and a fine example of Norman architecture.
The Crown Jewels are securely stored in the Jewel House underground. They attract a line of visitors waiting to ogle over the vast collection of priceless gems and royal regalia.
Photographers shoot the view of Tower Bridge, seen from the edge of The Water Gate, better known as Traitor’s Gate. Queens Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Princess Elizabeth, later Queen Elizabeth 1, entered it as prisoners. And no visit to London is complete without a snapshot of the flamboyantly costumed Beefeaters or Yeoman Warders. They guard the Castle grounds and give lively tours.
The Tower is London is, in my opinion, the city’s best landmark and its location is ideal for anyone looking for hotels in London city centre. The subway offers easy access via the Tower Hill stop. Even if time is short, don’t miss this historic and enthralling site.
The US National Park Service protects and promotes nearly 400 sites. At most locations visitors pay an admission fee. However, entrance to Independence Historic Park in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania remains free. That’s a good deal because the Park includes numerous attractions like Carpenter’s Hall, Franklin Court, Federal Reserve Bank, the Liberty Bell and the famed Independence Hall. Who can complain?
But, then again, shouldn’t tourists pay at least a nominal fee?
Recently I visited with my two grandchildren, ages 6 and 8, and their parents. We started at the Visitors Center where we obtained complimentary timed tickets for a tour inside the legendary center. These vouchers are available on a daily basis and prevent time wasted queuing in line.
Prior to our scheduled entry, we cleared security and entered a holding room. Now trust me, I’m a big fan of the National Park System and have never been disappointed with the value of a visit anywhere. However, on this particular occasion, the Park Ranger acting as our guide was either having a very bad day or felt the need to control others. Her opening 10-minute history lesson fell flat (as did her jokes) and many of the tourists became restless and fidgety. She would periodically stop her oratory and scold the “rude” guests, threatening to expel them. I personally felt uneasy and not particularly proud of this introduction, especially to foreign travelers.
The presence of a screen at the front of the room begged for a slide show, power point presentation or a short video. I’m sure one of these would have captivated the audience’s attention far better.
Once we entered the former Pennsylvania State House, we received another disjointed speech concerning the historical events that took place in the area. Unfortunately a group of East Indian tourists continued to talk amongst themselves- likely trying to interpret the saga. Our Ranger walked back to them and actually forced the group to leave the building. She returned and we scurried across the hall.
We arrived at the signers room, the meeting spot where the Declaration of Independence was adopted and eventually signed. Sadly, our guide’s presentation just wasn’t captivating or compelling . The grandkids weren’t able to grasp the explanation and most of the visitors seemed disconcerted. Sorry NPS– No deal. My overall impression was disappointment; surely passion can be portrayed at to the birthplace of the United States. I regrettably discourage an inside visit for children younger than 8 or 10 years.
Eventually the tour moved to the second floor and only then did I feel I was actually exploring the structure. The ascent and descent of the magnificent, wide staircase gave me the sense of traveling back in time. My footsteps were pounding the floorboards traversed by our Founding Fathers. This interaction was what I came for, to feel the history within the walls, not just stare at a roped-off room full of chairs.
Further Exploration Around the Park
Happily, our adventure through the Liberty Bell exhibition hall proved far superior. The kids loved seeing the crack in the bell and being close to the real thing, the symbol of freedom. Although the glass building is very modern, the Liberty Bell rests in a spot where visitors can look outside and see the steeple where it originally hung.
We also meandered through a portrait gallery in the Second National Bank. To my delight, this exhibit offered an opportunity to come face to face with priceless works of art. No barriers here; numerous paintings of our nation’s forefathers, dignitaries and other illustrious 18th century characters cram the space.
Afterward, we stopped for lunch at the Food Court (just what you’d expect) and walked a block to Franklin Court. Here we descended into an underground museum and watched the movie Ben and Me. The 1955 film remains as much a hit with today’s high-tech kids as it did years ago when my own youngsters first enjoyed it. I highly encourage viewing this 20-minute animated presentation.
We also stopped into Franklin’s printing office. And… guess who demonstrated the press? None other than our original Ranger guide from Independence Hall!! I was flabbergasted, but must admit she improved her act in the print shop. Here she gave a lively hands-on demonstration. Perhaps ink is her calling.
Lastly, we returned to the Visitors Center so Kyra and RJ could get their Junior Ranger badges. The Park employees reviewed the question and answer booklets and the children took a oath. Upon completion, they were also handed a set of Historical Park trading cards. As far as the kids were concerned, these tokens were the best deal of the day. Anyone want to trade a John Hancock for a Tom Jefferson??
Demonstration of Franklin’s Printing Press
According to the UNESCO World Heritage Statement of Significance: Independence Hall was declared a World Heritage Site in 1979 as the location where The Declaration of Independence was adopted and the U.S. Constitution framed in the 18th-century. It is listed for association with the universal principles of freedom and democracy set forth in these documents, which have had a profound impact on lawmakers and political thinkers around the world. They became the models for similar charters of other nations, and may be considered to have heralded the modern era of government.
In one of the most jaw-drop, gorgeous scenic landscapes anywhere in the world, you will find one of the most bizarre mortuaries.
The tiny town of Hallstatt (population 1,000) lies precariously perched on the side of a mountain. Little A-frame houses cling to the hillside as if magically suspended or stuck on with Velcro. Main Street rests at the base, along the shores of a shimmering blueberry colored lake resembling a fjord. A stone church with a tall pointed steeple seems to teeter on the edge.
Skulls in the Bone Chapel
Walk along Main Street which runs up and down like a staircase throughout the village (cars are not permitted during the day). Climb up to the Roman Catholic Church with a 16th-century gold altarpiece and cemetery with an eerie bone chapel. Compared to the Capuchin Cemetery in Rome (see my previous blog), the Hallstatt bone chapel is more a one room schoolhouse. Called a Beinhaus or charnel house, it crams in 1,200 skulls painted with floral designs and in some cases the name, date and cause of death.
You see, shortage of space in the graveyard limited the number of burial plots, so bodies were removed after decomposing for ten years to make room for the new. The practice makes sense when you see the territorial constraints. The bone chapel becomes a sacred place holding the history of the close-knit residents.
Most tourists come to Hallstatt to see the beauty of the setting and visit the salt mines. A nearby funicular whisks guests up to observation point with a storybook view. Then, they hike up a path to the mine entrance and don pajama-like jumpsuits. Group tours enter a tunnel and then progress deeper underground via fast wooden slides. This makes a fun adventure and eventually, you exit by straddling a small train.
Down into the Salt Mines
Hallstatt rightfully calls itself Austria’s oldest town with evidence dating back to 400 BC. The name derives from the Celtic word “hall” meaning salt. Salt mines near the village have always provided the livelihood for the region, noted as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Another fascinating attraction in the area is the Dachstein ice cave. To get to the cave, ride the gondola, then hike about twenty minutes to reach the tour entrance. Wildflowers abound, often creeping out of rocky ledges on the walkway. The alpine scene rates as truly spectacular and certainly worth the effort. Be forewarned: even in summer the temperature in the caves is cool enough to require a jacket.
Absolutely don’t miss the Reinanke trout fresh from the lake. The local fish is served on a slab and tastes luscious and buttery. In fact I’ll make a bold statement– Reinanke is the best fish I have ever eaten. I devoured it both nights we stayed in the Salzkammergut region.
Hallstatt Town Square
After touring Vienna, the rustic outdoorsy charm of the area invigorated the soul and stimulated the senses. My family loved visiting Hallstatt in June. Can’t quite imagine stopping by the little hamlet in winter. Well, after all, I do live in Florida. But, if you know me, and given the chance, I’d go–wrapped in the warmest parka I could find.
