My Too Brief Visit to Natchitoches, Louisiana

Have you ever driven through a city or town and immediately wanted to stop and explore? That’s how I felt when I reached Natchitoches, Louisiana, site of the town in the movie Steel Magnolias. Fortunately, I had a few hours to spend, but the brief visit only increased my desire to return. The destination has much to offer.

Downtown Cane River Lake in Natchitoches LA
Downtown Cane River Lake in Natchitoches LA

Natchitoches (pronounced “Nack-a-tish”) is the oldest community in the Louisiana Purchase territory. Today, it’s the B&B capital of the state including many historic homes that look inviting for a girl’s getaway or romantic escape. The lively riverfront of the downtown district borders the beautifully landscaped Cane River Lake. I stopped into the Northwest Louisiana History Museum, which also houses the Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame.

Downtown Natchitoches
Downtown Natchitoches

I found the museum’s new (but year long) exhibition impressive: The Murals of Clementine Hunter. “Clementine Hunter is a great example of the creative genius who arises from the most unlikely circumstances,” said Lt. Governor Jay Dardenne at the exhibits opening on March 28, 2015. “After the age of 50, with little more than her own vision and fierce determination, she picked up a brush and painted her way to wide acclaim.”

Murals of Clementine Hunter
Wash Day – The Murals of Clementine Hunter

 

Hunter Murals-6
The Baptism by Clementine Hunter

 

Most of Hunter’s works document the social life and customs of the African-American community as she saw it. Her early days were spent picking cotton and pecans at Melrose Plantation, and eventually she moved into the Big House to help with kitchen and laundry duties. There her first creative endeavors were sparked; making dolls and quilting. One day she picked up a leftover paintbrush and started painting. She never stopped until a few days before her death at age 101.

Murals of Clementine Hunter
Murals of Clementine Hunter

 

She painted her memories, so we see an insider’s perspective on life from 1939 to 1988. The murals (removed for renovation from the walls of the African and Yucca House on Melrose Plantation) are large, four by eight feet. The size brings the viewer into the painting, and the primitive style provokes a level of understanding, not intimidation. Hunter often drew women larger than men because she saw them as more important.

Living History at Fort St. Jean Baptiste
Living History at Fort St. Jean Baptiste

I didn’t have time to visit the National Park site in Natchitoches: the Cane River Creole Plantation, which includes Oakland and Magnolia Plantations. I did make it out to Fort St. Jean Baptiste. The full-scale wooden reconstruction sits near the site of the original fort based upon archival research. Many of the interior buildings: a trading warehouse, powder magazine, church, commandant’s house, barracks, guardhouse, and bastions reminded me of those within St. Augustine’s fort. Costumed interpreters portray life during the period when French soldiers lived in Louisiana.

Costumed Interpreter
Costumed Interpreter

 

 

 

 

 

The Cane River used to pass by the fort and downtown district, but the river changed course in the 1830’s. The loss of the former port, bustling with cotton and sugar shipments, also changed the economy of the area. Natchitoches suffered through the Civil War and Great Depression and growth came slow during the industrial age. Tourism is now one of the primary sources of income. Visitors will find appealing shops, restaurants featuring Southern, Creole, and Cajun cuisine, comfortable lodging, museums and many National Historical Landmarks worthy of a tour.

The City of Natchitoches was established in 1714 and is the oldest permanent settlement in the Louisiana Purchase territory. Historic Front Street, shown here, is part of the commercial heart of the 33-block National Historic Landmark District. (Photo by Mark Bills)
The City of Natchitoches was established in 1714 and is the oldest permanent settlement in the Louisiana Purchase territory. Historic Front Street, shown here, is part of the commercial heart of the 33-block National Historic Landmark District. (Photo by Mark Bills)

 

 

 

If you go:

Natchitoches lies in Northwest Louisiana, 256 miles or about a 4-hour drive from New Orleans. Spots of interest along the way include Baton Rouge, Plantation Alley, Atchafalaya River Basin, Lafayette, and the Kisatchie National Forest.

Try the meat pies at Maglieaux’s on the Cane.

Don’t Dismiss Grounds for Sculpture in New Jersey

My daughter-in-law Amy thought I would enjoy touring Grounds for Sculpture, a mostly outdoor park near Princeton. So, she made brunch reservations for the family during my recent visit to New Jersey. And, she was right! Amy, my son, the two grandchildren (ages 10 and 12) and I made it a memorable day.

 

Grounds for Sculpture in New Jersey
Grounds for Sculpture in New Jersey

As we were nearing the address, we were greeted by large outdoor sculptures in the surrounding industrial park. I was surprised by this location, but learned the park sits on the former New Jersey State Fairgrounds. The larger than life, 3-D version of Grant Wood’s famed painting, American Gothic, was my favorite.

Entrance to Rats Restaurant
Entrance to Rats Restaurant

We parked at Rat’s Restaurant, inspired by Kenneth Grahame’s beloved classic, The Wind in the Willows. The eclectic eatery incorporates whimsical architecture including a variety of secluded nooks, dormers, exposed beams and slanted ceilings. You’ll also find typical indoor and outdoor dining spaces. Walls are brightly painted and covered with artistic murals, or objects’ art. The surrounding gardens make you feel like you stepped into Monet’s beloved French town of Giverny. In fact, the aptly named Monet Bridge crosses over a lily pond just a stone’s throw from the rear patio.

Diners at Rats Restaurant near the Money Bridge.
Diners at Rats Restaurant near the Money Bridge.

Country French cuisine is the specialty of the house where diners can order off the menu or indulge with the all-inclusive brunch buffet. We chose the buffet including delectable French pastries, stuffed French toast, breakfast meats, eggs to order, quiches, and salads, an array of fresh vegetables and a prime rib and lamb carving station. A sampler of desserts was brought to the table and included small-sized portions of carrot cake, cheesecake, cookies, brownies, and other sweets.

Following the meal, we headed out the back door that leads to one of the entrances. Grounds for Sculpture, located in Hamilton Township, is a 42-acre, well-tended and beautifully landscaped park plus a museum, visitor center, and a few less-pricey cafes. The mission of the park is to let the public experience sculpture in a relaxed setting rather than a formal museum. It succeeds.

Poppy Hill Sculpture
Poppy Hill Sculpture

Hundreds of people of all ages were strolling the walkways or across the grass. Kids are free to run and even climb on or into some works. Some remain hands-off. One piece is a musical sculpture that calls for spirited banging; Kyra gave a concert! Both grandkids grabbed the lifelike bronze kids linking their hands with the semi-circular work. The whole family momentarily joined the men standing in the Depression Bread Line. A super large copy of Marilyn Monroe’s famous pose with her wind-blown skirt provides provocative photo opts. Don’t forget to bring your camera and make sure to look for the hidden art behind shrubs, off in a corner, or behind a fence.

Mega Marilyn

Kids join the sculpture
Kids join the sculpture

Johnson Impressionist_

You will run into many of J. Seward Johnson’s life-size impressionist-inspired sculptures as well as his creations of everyday people. In fact, many of them are so lifelike, you think they are real: a couple pushing a stroller or a teenager napping near the pond. The artworks are castings of living people.

Back in 1984, J. Seward Johnson, philanthropist of the Johnson & Johnson family, New Jersey native and famed sculptor, envisioned a public outdoor art arena. Construction began in 1989 on the site, but none of the rare, beautiful trees or flowering shrubs existed at the time. Public tax-exempt bonds and private foundations associated with Johnson financed the landscaping and sculpture acquisitions. Today you will discover hundreds of pieces in permanent outdoor collections, seasonal exhibitions, and many educational programs.

Sunday in the Park
Sunday in the Park

By all means, if you find yourself anywhere near the Princeton area, don’t miss this unusual, carefree outdoor world of art.

 

If you go:

Tickets: $15 – adults, $12 – seniors, $10 – students, children 5 and under are free.

www.groundsforsculpture.org

Art by a pond at Grounds for Sculpture.
Art by a pond at Grounds for Sculpture.

Recalling Ashford Castle and the Falconry School

On April 17, 2015, Ashford Castle officially re-opened after a two-year, $75 million renovation. Ireland’s Prime Minister, Enda Kenny, and Beatrice Tollman, President and Founder of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection were on hand for the celebration. Tollman said, “Ashford Castle becomes the jewel of the collection and certainly one of Europe’s finest luxury hotels.”

Ashford Castle exterior 2015
Ashford Castle exterior 2015

I can only imagine how spectacular this iconic site must look. Back in March, 2006, I stayed at the 800-year-old castle during a trip to Ireland. I vividly remember driving past miles upon miles of sheep surrounded by ancient hand-crafted stone walls. Then we entered the property and crossed a bridge over the moat. Everything I imagined from childhood fairy tales stood before me with the exception of a golden coach. I couldn’t have been more thrilled.

Renovated Ashford Castle - Oak Hall

The lobby welcomed me (and still does as seen in the above photo) with wine and ruby colored accents and a blazing fireplace. Our guestroom had a window where my daughter envisioned herself as Rapunzel, a perfect spot to let down her hair. I admit the suite could have included more modern features, especially in the bath, but I was happy at the time. The overall ambiance was rich and royal, and I felt a bit like a princess myself.

My daughter Laura at Ashford Castle window in 2006.
My daughter Laura at Ashford Castle window in 2006.

 

Now, each of the 82 guestrooms and suites and all public areas have been artfully decorated and redesigned with a range of selected antiques, original artwork, sumptuous fabrics and bespoke carpets all complemented by the latest technologies including Wi-Fi available throughout the hotel.

 

Laura in the Falconry Class.
Laura in the Falconry Class.

The hotel’s grounds were also splendid with secret gardens, stone turrets and fountains. The most vivid memory of my stay was the wonderful hands-on educational Falconry Class. Ashford’s School of Falconry is the oldest and most established in Ireland. I can still feel the joy of having a bird to return to my gloved hand , a moment in time I will never forget. I hope you will read my story about that experience here: Gone Hawking.

 

I hope someday to return to Ashford Castle but for now these old photos will have to do.

 

2006 Ashford Castle at Dawn

Crossing the moat at Ashford Castle
Crossing the moat at Ashford Castle
Debi during the Falconry Class.
Debi during the Falconry Class.

 

Ashford Castle in 2006
Ashford Castle in 2006

ABOUT ASHFORD CASTLE:

Ashford Castle is set on 350 acres in County Mayo, on the shores of Lough Corrib and the River Cong, with a spectacular backdrop of woodlands, lake, river, and mountains. A member of Leading Hotels of the World, it features 82 guestrooms and is renowned for a range of country sports including an equestrian centre, fly fishing, an exclusive nine-hole golf course and Ireland’s first school of falconry. Several dining rooms and bars, along with a gracious afternoon tea service are among the amenities.

For more information, please visit www.ashfordcastle.com.