Tag Archives: colonial history travel

The 14th Colony: Discover St. Augustine’s Hidden Role in American History

The “14th Colony”

My Bylandersea America 250 series explores the founding of the thirteen English colonies that ultimately banded together in revolution. Yet there is an older settlement that doesn’t fit neatly into that English storyline: St. Augustine, Florida. In the Revolutionary era, Florida was sometimes described as a “fourteenth colony,” governed as East and West Florida, though it remained loyal to the Crown. Because I once called St. Augustine home, I want to share the story of its founding before we continue along the road to the Revolution.

Castillo de San Marcos, a National Park Monument, as it looks today. ©Bylandersea

Founded in 1565, decades before Jamestown (1607) or Plymouth (1620), St. Augustine stood as the capital of Spanish La Florida for more than 200 years. Though it never became part of Britain’s rebellious colonies, its history is inseparable from the broader American story. St. Augustine became, in effect, a “fourteenth colony” — a European outpost shaped by empire, faith, Indigenous encounters, African labor, and Mediterranean immigrants.

Its survival against attack, its blend of cultures, and its passage through Spanish, British, and eventually American hands add depth to our understanding of early America. To tell the story of this “14th colony” is to venture beyond the English Atlantic and see the wider world that became the United States.

The many flags that have flown over St. Augustine. ©Bylandersea

Founding and First Years

When Spanish Admiral Pedro Menéndez de Avilés sailed into Florida’s northeastern coast in 1565, he carried orders to protect Spain’s treasure fleets, spread Catholic faith, and secure Spain’s claim to “La Florida.”

On September 8, the Feast Day of St. Augustine, Menéndez came ashore. A Mass was celebrated, marking what many consider the first Catholic ceremony in what is now the continental United States. The new settlement was named in honor of St. Augustine of Hippo.

A Reenactment of Founder’s Day, celebrated annually in St. Augustine. ©Bylandersea

From the beginning, life was precarious. The Spanish ousted French settlers at nearby Fort Caroline (now Jacksonville, FL) in a bloody conflict remembered at Matanzas Inlet, while struggling against the subtropical climate and negotiating tense relations with the Timucua people. Despite challenges, St. Augustine endured, laying the foundation for centuries of continuous occupation.

Ponce de León & the Search for La Florida

Statue of Juan Ponce De Leon in St. Augustine. ©Bylandersea

Long before St. Augustine was founded, Juan Ponce de León made history by becoming the first known European to set foot on the Florida peninsula in 1513. (Yes, that far back.) Sailing north from Puerto Rico, he named the land La Florida—“land of flowers”—because he arrived during the Easter season.

Ponce de León is often linked to the legend of the Fountain of Youth, though this tale grew more in folklore than fact. What mattered most was Spain’s claim: his exploration planted the Spanish flag nearly a century before the Pilgrims ever landed at Plymouth.

By the time Pedro Menéndez arrived in 1565, Spain was fulfilling Ponce de León’s first vision: establishing a permanent foothold in Florida that would anchor Spanish power for centuries.

Castillo de San Marcos & Defensive Evolution

An aerial photo of the impressive fort shows its design. Taken from a biplane ride over the city. ©Bylandersea

The Castillo de San Marcos or fort became the base of St. Augustine’s survival. Construction began in 1672 after wooden forts failed against enemy attacks. Built of coquina stone, a shell-limestone composite, the walls absorbed cannon fire rather than shattering, proving nearly indestructible.

Over time, the fort expanded and adapted to changing warfare. Thanks to its strength, St. Augustine served as the military, administrative, and religious capital of Spanish Florida for more than two centuries.

Missions, Society & Culture

While the city often appears in military history, it was also a center of religion, trade, and culture. Spanish friars built missions to convert Indigenous peoples, producing cultural blending.

The community was diverse: Spanish officials, soldiers, Franciscan friars, enslaved Africans, and free people of African descent all shaped daily life. Archaeology reveals their diet, crafts, and ties to the broader Spanish Caribbean. Though fires destroyed many early buildings, St. Augustine’s colonial identity remains vivid.

A Room within the Gonzalez-Alvarez House, considered the oldest remaining house in the city. ©Bylandersea

🇬🇧 British Rule & The Minorcan Story

In 1763, Spain ceded Florida to Britain after the Seven Years’ War. St. Augustine became the capital of British East Florida, a lesser-known but significant chapter.

During this period, Dr. Andrew Turnbull recruited more than 1,400 Mediterranean laborers, primarily from the island of Menorca, along with Greeks, Italians, and Corsicans to establish the colony of New Smyrna. Harsh conditions, hunger, and disease decimated the group. In 1777, about 600 survivors marched to St. Augustine, where they were granted refuge.

Tolomato Cemetery where many Minorcans are buried. Photo: Mdnghtshdw, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Minorcans became an enduring community within the city, leaving additional cultural legacies still seen today in sites like the St. Photios Greek Orthodox Shrine and in beloved local dishes such as Menorcan clam chowder spiced with datil peppers.


🇪🇸 Spanish Return & American Transition

Spain regained Florida in 1783, but the era was brief. By the Adams–Onís Treaty of 1819 (ratified 1821), Spain ceded Florida to the United States. St. Augustine briefly served as the territorial capital before government functions moved to Tallahassee.

Thus, St. Augustine’s story is not simply “Spanish then American.” It passed through multiple empires and cultures, each leaving lasting imprints in its architecture, traditions, and memory.

Why St. Augustine Matters in the 250-Year Narrative

  • Predates Jamestown (1607) and Plymouth (1620) by decades.
  • Endured wars, raids, and shifting empires.
  • Highlights the contributions of Spanish, Indigenous, African, and Minorcan peoples in shaping early America.

St. Augustine reminds us that America’s beginnings extend beyond the English colonies, offering a more complex and inclusive story of origins.

Do You Know: Pedro Menéndez de Avilés

This statue of Pedro Menendez stands in front of St. Augustine City Hall. ©Bylandersea

Few names loom larger in St. Augustine’s history than Pedro Menéndez de Avilés. Born in 1519 in Asturias, Spain, Menéndez rose from a seafaring family to become a skilled naval officer. In 1565, King Philip II of Spain appointed him Adelantado of Florida, charging him with colonizing and defending Spain’s claims.

Menéndez not only founded St. Augustine but also orchestrated Spain’s victory over the French at nearby Fort Caroline, securing La Florida for the Spanish Crown. Fierce, determined, and devout, he combined military skill with religious zeal. Though often remembered for ruthless actions against the French Huguenots, his leadership allowed St. Augustine to survive when many other early colonies failed.

Menéndez died in 1574, but his vision left behind the enduring settlement we know today as America’s oldest city.

Touring Colonial-Era St. Augustine

Castillo de San Marcos

Displays of Spanish military maneuvers at Castillo de San Marcos.


No visit to St. Augustine is complete without exploring the Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the continental United States. Constructed of resilient coquina stone in the late 1600s, the fortress has withstood sieges, hurricanes, and centuries of change. Today, visitors can climb its ramparts, gaze across the Matanzas Bay, and imagine watchmen scanning the horizon for enemy ships. National Park rangers and reenactors bring the site alive with musket drills and booming cannon demonstrations, a vivid reminder of the strategic importance this stronghold once held for the Spanish Empire.

Colonial Quarter

Buildings within the St. Augustine Colonial Quarter. ©Bylandersea


The Colonial Quarter is an immersive living history museum where the centuries peel back one layer at a time. Here, costumed interpreters guide visitors through reconstructed streets and workshops representing the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. You can watch a blacksmith hammer out iron, see a musket drill performed, and climb a 35-foot wooden watchtower overlooking St. George Street. It’s an ideal stop for families, as hands-on exhibits and storytelling create a sense of daily life in colonial St. Augustine.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine
Located in the heart of downtown, the Cathedral Basilica is the oldest parish church in the United States. Its coquina walls and Spanish Colonial design reflect the city’s heritage, while stained-glass windows and ornate altars provide a sense of timeless beauty. The original parish was founded in 1565, though the current structure was completed in the late 18th century after fire destroyed earlier churches. Whether you’re attending Mass or simply admiring the art and architecture, the Basilica embodies St. Augustine’s enduring spiritual and cultural legacy.

Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park

The Timucuan Village at the Fountain of Youth Park. ©Bylandersea


The Fountain of Youth Archeological Park is an attraction that blends legend with authentic history. Long associated with Ponce de León’s mythical search for eternal youth, the site today highlights the archaeological remains of St. Augustine’s earliest settlement area. Visitors can sip from the famous spring, explore a recreated Timucua village, and walk through exhibits about Spanish missions and Native American life. Daily cannon firings and peacocks strutting the grounds add to the colorful atmosphere, making the park equal parts education and entertainment. (Although I tried many times, unfortunately, the Fountain of Youth failed me. )

The Daily Canon Firing at the Fountain of Youth Archeological Park. ©Bylandersea

Chapel of Our Lady of La Leche and Mission Grounds
North of downtown, the Mission Nombre de Dios and Chapel of Our Lady of La Leche mark the very site where Spanish settlers celebrated the first Catholic Mass in 1565. The tiny chapel, America’s oldest Marian shrine, draws pilgrims seeking blessings of fertility and family. Rising nearby is the striking 208-foot stainless-steel Great Cross, a landmark visible across the city. The expansive grounds are also home to Founder’s Day celebrations each September, commemorating Pedro Menéndez’s landing and the first Mass with reenactments, liturgy, and festivities that honor St. Augustine’s sacred beginnings.

Chapel of Our Lady of La Leche ©Bylandersea

Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse & Historic Streets

St. George Street isa pedestrian-only street in downtown historic St. Augustine. ©Bylandersea


Walking along St. George Street, the city’s historic thoroughfare, feels like stepping into another century. Among the preserved colonial-era structures is the Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse, a humble red cedar and cypress building dating back to the early 18th century. Inside, exhibits show what education looked like in colonial Florida. Along the way, boutiques, cafés, and museums housed in centuries-old buildings invite visitors to pause and imagine the bustling life of the town’s earliest inhabitants.

Don’t miss Historic Aveles Street when visiting St. Augustine. ©Bylandersea

Fort Matanzas National Monument
About 14 miles south of downtown, Fort Matanzas, now a National Monument, guarded the southern approach to St. Augustine from the mid-18th century. Built by the Spanish in 1742, the small coquina watchtower played an outsized role in defending the city from British incursions. Today, visitors can enjoy a short ferry ride across the Matanzas River to explore the fort, walk the nature trails, and learn about the vital role this outpost played in the survival of colonial St. Augustine.

Fort Matanzas is a National Historic Monument managed by the National Park Service. ©Bylandersea

Practical Tips for Visiting St. Augustine

Best Time to Visit: Fall and spring bring pleasant weather and fewer crowds; summer can be hot and humid.
Getting Around: The Old Town Trolley Tour offers convenient hop-on, hop-off stops at all the major colonial sites.
Passes & Tickets: Consider a combination ticket for the Colonial Quarter, Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse, and Fountain of Youth to maximize value.
Don’t Miss: Sunset views from the seawall near the Castillo, and tasting Menorcan clam chowder at a local café.

And that’s not all. 

Beyond its colonial roots, St. Augustine invites visitors to keep peeling back the layers of history and culture. You can step into the elegance of the Gilded Age at Henry Flagler’s grand hotels, follow the Civil Rights Trail through sites of pivotal 1960s marches and protests, or return in winter for the dazzling Nights of Lights festival that blankets the city in holiday magic. Food lovers will also find plenty to savor, from fresh seafood and farm-to-table dining to the signature flavors of Minorcan chowder. St. Augustine is not only America’s oldest city — it’s a destination that continues to reinvent itself while honoring every era of its story.

For more information: FloridasHistoricCoast.com


Jamestown – Where America Took Root

ByLanderseaAmerica250 – Post 2

The story of America doesn’t begin with July 4, 1776. It starts earlier, much earlier. My previous blog post addressed the site of the first settlement on Roanoke Island, NC. This time we are deep in the swamplands of Virginia, where 104 men and boys stepped ashore in 1607 and built a wooden fort. That place was Jamestown.

Unlike the doomed Lost Colony of Roanoke, Jamestown endured. Barely. Sponsored by the Virginia Company of London, the settlers came in search of profit: gold, silk, and trade. Instead, they met disease, starvation, and tension with the powerful Powhatan Confederacy.

I found the route they took surprising, so share it here: The three ships that carried the first group of settlers to Jamestown in 1607—Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery—departed from London on December 20, 1606, under the command of Captain Christopher Newport. They sailed down the Thames, paused at Blackwall for final preparations, then headed to sea. After leaving England, they stopped at the Downs (an anchorage off the Kent coast), continued via the Canary Islands and the Caribbean, and sighted land at Cape Henry on April 26, 1607. The party chose Jamestown Island for their fort on May 14, 1607.

Captain John Smith

Captain John Smith quickly emerged as one of Jamestown’s most effective leaders. Amid food shortages, disease, and constant strain with Powhatan towns, he enforced a strict “he who does not work, shall not eat” policy that helped keep the colony alive. Smith is also remembered for his encounters with the Powhatan people, especially the famous story of his dramatic rescue by Chief Powhatan’s daughter, Pocahontas. Many historians believe the episode was a ritual or later embellished, but what matters for Jamestown’s survival is that Smith negotiated for corn, mapped the rivers, and kept dialogue open. {Smith leaves Virginia in late 1609 after a gunpowder accident, and the colony soon spiraled into the Starving Time.)

The Virginia Company packed the next wave in 1608 with skilled specialists—refiners, apothecaries, a jeweler, a blacksmith, a gunner, even a perfumer—hoping that industries such as glassmaking, metalworking, and naval storeswould make Virginia a worthwhile investment. Within days, the fort burned, but the colony now had craftspeople to rebuild.

Another supply followed in autumn 1608 (aboard Mary and Margaret), bringing roughly 70 newcomers, including the first two English women, Mistress Forrest and her maid Anne Burras, whose marriage to carpenter John Laydon became Jamestown’s first wedding. This convoy also delivered eight German/Polish “glasse-men,” the nucleus of America’s first English industrial trial at the Jamestown glasshouse.

Took this photo standing on the upper deck of one of the recreated ships at Jamestown. ©Bylandersea

The big push, the Third Supply, left in June 1609: nine ships with 500–600 people and ample livestock and gear. The flagship Sea Venture wrecked on Bermuda, splitting the fleet; the colonists who did reach Virginia entered into the Starving Time of 1609–1610, when only about 60 of some 500 survived. The Bermuda castaways (over 100) finally reached Jamestown in May 1610, found the scene “lamentable,” and started to evacuate until Lord De La Warr arrived on June 10, 1610. He brought supplies and reinforcements and ordered everyone back to work. Relief deepened with the planting of tobacco by John Rolfe, which became Virginia’s cash crop.

Recovery continued in 1611, when Sir Thomas Dale landed with about 300 soldiers, cattle, and provisions. Dale expanded beyond the fort, founding Henricus (now Henricus Historical Park in Chester, VA) and pushed farming and discipline that finally stabilized the population.

A few years later, Pocahontas, baptized as Rebecca while living among the English, married tobacco planter John Rolfe on April 1614 at Jamestown, likely officiated by Rev. Richard Bucke. Their union ushered in several years of relative calm often called the Peace of Pocahontas.

“George Spohni, The wedding of Pocahontas with John Rolfe, 1867. Library of Congress (public domain).”

Jamestown Rediscovery

For decades, historians believed that the 1607 English settlement in Jamestown, Virginia, lay underwater in the James River. In 1994, under the leadership of Dr. William Kelso of the Jamestown Rediscovery project, an archeological dig was launched in hopes of locating the assumed lost fort. Within three archeological seasons, Kelso and his team uncovered enough evidence to prove the remains of James Fort existed on dry land. Better yet, the search led them near the remains of the 17th-century church tower and to the graves of four founders.

Findings from the Jamestown Rediscovery digs. ©Bylandersea

This discovery became exciting news about America’s birthplace and renewed interest in the Jamestown story. Today, visitors to Jamestown Settlement begin their experience at the high-tech visitor center. I was immediately impressed with the museum’s size, scope, and elaborate state-of-the-art interactive displays. A 4-D film provides an overview of Jamestown’s beginnings. Depending on your interest, you’ll need a minimum of 30 minutes, while those wanting to learn more could spend several hours.

Display within the Museum and Visitor Center at Jamestown Settlement. ©Bylandersea
Museum showcases at Jamestown Settlement Visitor Center. ©Bylandersea

After you tour the museum, head outside to see the recreated Paspahegh town or Powhatan Indian Village. This area reflects the typical daily life of the Virginia tribe. Within the wooded clearing, see reed-covered houses dotted with cooking circles, a dugout canoe, and a ceremonial circle. Learn about the culture of the Indigenous people from costumed interpreters. Personalities like Captain John Smith, John Rolfe, Powhatan, and Pocahontas lived here.

A costumed interpreter demonstrates daily life activities and answers visitor questions. ©Bylandersea

The Indian reserve leads down to the river’s edge, where docked replicas of the ships, the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery await. Take the time to go aboard and imagine how the original 104 voyagers spent their cramped days and nights aboard the small vessels.

Be sure to go aboard the replica ships tied to the dock. ©Bylandersea

Another walkway leads to the reconstructed triangular-shaped James Fort, which encloses multiple wooden buildings and offers more costumed interpreters. Life within the fort wasn’t easy, but here, free, enslaved, and indentured people mixed during their struggles with early colonization.

To complete your tour, visitors must drive a short distance to Jamestowne Island, a National Park Historic landmark and site of exciting ongoing archeological digs. There, you’ll find an outline of the original fort, a statue of John Smith near the shoreline, and likely working archeologists. The Archaearium Museum showcases relics from the 1607-1624 Virginia Company period.

Statue of Captain John Smith and the 1608 church at Historic Jamestowne Settlement.
©Bylandersea

You’ll also see the site of the original 1608 church, named one of 2010’s 10 most significant archaeological discoveries in the world by Archaeology Magazine. The church was where Chief Powhatan’s daughter Pocahontas married John Rolfe on April 5, 1614.

In 1619, the church was the site of an important and historic series of meetings: those of the first elected legislative body in America, the House of Burgesses in the Virginia General Assembly. Tragically, that same year marked the arrival of the first enslaved Africans—ushering in a legacy of inequality that would shape the nation’s future.

Unfortunately, the church burned during Bacon’s Rebellion in 1676. Repairs were made, and the church continued to serve until approximately 1750.

Today, the site includes the remains of the 17th-century tower. While ten feet of its height and the original nave were lost, preservation groups stepped in. They erected a new church for the settlement’s 300th anniversary with glass panels to see the original foundations.

Interior of the reconstructed first church.

When you visit Jamestown, you witness the triumphs and contradictions of America’s beginnings, where ideals of liberty stood alongside forced labor, and survival came through adaptation and grit.

Do You Know: Captain John Smith (1580–1631)

John Smith, c.1617. National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution (CC0).”


Captain John Smith was an English soldier, explorer, and author whose leadership proved crucial to the survival of Jamestown. Born in Lincolnshire, England, Smith led an adventurous life as a soldier of fortune across Europe and the Near East before joining the Virginia Company’s 1606 expedition to the New World.


Arriving in 1607, Smith quickly emerged as one of Jamestown’s most effective leaders. Amid food shortages, disease, and tense relations with Indigenous peoples, he enforced a strict “he who does not work, shall not eat” policy that helped sustain the struggling colony. Smith is also remembered for his interactions with the Powhatan Confederacy, particularly the story—likely embellished—of his dramatic rescue by Powhatan’s daughter, Pocahontas.


In 1608–1609, Smith undertook extensive mapping of the Chesapeake Bay and its rivers, producing detailed charts that guided future explorers and settlers. Injured in a gunpowder accident in 1609, he returned to England but continued to promote colonization through his writings, which offered vivid descriptions of the New World and its peoples.


Smith’s blend of disciplined leadership, exploration, and self-promotion made him a central figure in the early history of Virginia and the broader English colonial enterprise. His legacy endures in American folklore, maps, and the ongoing story of Jamestown.

Do You Know? – Pocahontas

“Simon van de Passe, Pocahontas, 1616. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.”


Most visitors associate Jamestown with Pocahontas, but the real story is richer and more complex than the legend. Born Amonute and later called Matoaka, she was the daughter of Wahunsenacawh (Chief Powhatan). In 1607–08, she was about 10–12 years old and sometimes visited the English fort, bringing food and messages. The famous “rescue” of Captain John Smith may have been a symbolic ritual rather than a literal life-saving act.


Pocahontas later married John Rolfe, a colonist who pioneered tobacco cultivation, and converted to Christianity as Rebecca Rolfe. In 1616 she traveled to England as a symbol of the Powhatan–English alliance, where she met King James I and Queen Anne. She died in 1617 at Gravesend, England around age 21.


Her life bridges two worlds and remains a powerful story of cultural encounter and transformation at the beginning of English America.

Portrait of Pocahontas engraved in 1616, wearing European dress and ruff

Trivia Tidbit – Pocahontas & First Lady Edith Bolling Wilson


First Lady Edith Bolling Wilson (1872–1961), the second wife of President Woodrow Wilson, traced her family lineage back to Pocahontas. Through her father’s side, she was a direct descendant of Pocahontas and John Rolfe’s son, Thomas Rolfe. This connection made Edith one of several prominent Virginians who proudly claimed Powhatan heritage and gave a First Lady of the United States a living tie to Jamestown’s most famous figure.

You can learn more about Edith Bolling Wilson at her Museum in her hometown of Wytheville, Virginia. I found this unexpected connection totally fascinating. Goodness! You never know what you will learn through your travels.

Arrival Guide: Visiting Jamestown


Getting There
Jamestown sits on the banks of the James River, just south of Williamsburg, Virginia. Visitors typically drive in via the Colonial Parkway, a scenic, tree-lined route connecting Yorktown, Williamsburg, and Jamestown. It’s about an hour from Richmond and roughly 2½ hours from Washington, D.C.


Two Distinct Experiences

Jamestown is actually two complementary sites:

Historic Jamestowne (National Park Service/Preservation Virginia)
This is the actual location of the 1607 English fort. You can talk with park rangers, see ongoing archaeology at the original fort site, the church tower, artifacts at the Archaearium, and the glasshouse.

The Archaearium, at Historic Jamestown contains many artifacts and displays from the archeological dig. ©Bylandersea

Jamestown Settlement (Virginia’s Museum of 17th-Century Virginia
Located nearby, this living history museum offers full-scale re-creations of the James Fort, Powhatan Indian village, and the three ships that brought the settlers—the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery. Costumed interpreters bring early 17th-century Virginia to life.
Both sites are worth visiting for a complete picture of Jamestown’s story. You can do them in one long day, but two days allows a more relaxed pace.

Parking: Both sites offer free parking lots close to the entrance.

A look at the Powhatan Indian Village at the Jamestown Settlement. ©Bylandersea


A building in the recreated Jamestown Fort Settlement. ©Bylandersea

Hours & Admission
• Historic Jamestowne: Open daily, generally 9 a.m.–5 p.m. (check seasonal hours). Requires both a National Park Service entrance fee and a Preservation Virginia ticket, usually bundled at the gate.
• Jamestown Settlement: Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. with a separate admission fee. Discounts often available for combo tickets with the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown,

Costumed Interpreter demonstrates the firing of a rifle. ©Bylandersea



Insider Tips
Combo Ticket: If you plan to see both sites (highly recommended), check for combination passes to save money.
Talk to the Archaeologists: At Historic Jamestowne, interpreters and archaeologists often share their latest finds right on the dig site.
Allow Time for the Glasshouse: The working glassblowing demonstration at Historic Jamestowne shows a trade practiced by colonists as early as 1608.
Photography: Morning or late afternoon light is ideal for capturing the reconstructed ships and fort palisades.