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Discovering Lake Geneva

April 9, 2019 by  

Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, sounded like one of those classic resort towns that a travel writer, like me, ought to know. So, I hopped a flight and began to explore. I came home with plenty of reasons to encourage others to visit, and I’m seriously considering a personal return next summer. It’s my kind of place. 

Wadsworth Hall, one of the many mammoth mansions on Lake Geneva.

Lake Geneva’s grand waterfront awed me and felt so relaxing, yet the place initially was called “Maunk-suck” (Big Foot) for a Potawatomi chief. Later it was named Geneva after the quiet town of Geneva, New York. The destination eventually became known as Lake Geneva to avoid confusion with the nearby Geneva, Illinois. 

Stone Manor sits on a bluff overlooking the lake.

Attracted by the fresh air, clear lake and scenic vistas, the community prospered and grew. Chicago’s wealthy businessmen started going there to hunt and fish. The Midwest’s great moguls, like Wrigley, Kellogg, Maytag and beer baron Conrad Seipp, liked it so much, they built opulent summer homes. A rail line opened in 1871 bringing more people to the area, and it gained the nickname “The Newport of the West.” 

Part of the Wrigley Estate on Lake Geneva.

Then, in October 1871, Chicago suffered its Great Fire, an event that oddly benefited Lake Geneva. Numerous families escaped the burning city on the train and stayed through the winter waiting for city homes to be rebuilt. While life in the big city slowly resumed, the Chicagoans cherished memories of summering in Lake Geneva and kept returning. Even today, about 80 percent of the summer residents have roots in Chicago.

You’ll find Lake Geneva’s old-fashion main street about 80 minutes from Chicago, and 45 minutes from Milwaukee. Boutique shops, non-chain restaurants, coffee shops and bars do a brisk business. Fall foliage, Oktoberfest, a winter ice sculpture extravaganza, and of course, ice fishing keep the pace going year-round. 

Downtown Pier in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin.

No trip to the region is complete without a guided cruise showcasing the spectacular lakefront mansions. The script from the cruise line sounds like it was lifted from the show Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. You need only look at the yachts and boathouses to see the owners’ rank among the country’s highest tax brackets. 

One of several Lake Geneva Cruise Boats used for tours and mail delivery.

The best way to work off those splurge- worthy vacation meals is to walk a portion or all the way around the scenic 21-mile lake path. I took a guided tour past some of the mansions and loved learning their behind-the-scenes stories. 

A section of the 21-mile lakefront path.

Touring inside the Black Point Estate, a fabulous high Victorian style mansion built in 1887-8 for beer baron Conrad Seipp, brings a taste of the bygone lifestyle. The property stayed in the family until 2005, much unchanged, until it was gifted to the State. (Group tours via ferry boar or motor coach only.) 

High Victorian style Black Point Estate on Lake Geneva.
I loved this dollhouse on display in Black Point Estate.

When I return, (I’m getting more and more positive) I’ll stay in either the Baker House or Maxwell Mansion, two historic downtown properties with plenty of character. They make ideal getaways for couples or a girls’ escape. The gardens of these boutique hotels feel magical, flaunting their Gilded Age glamour. The interiors include fire-lit parlors, period dining spaces and enticing bars- and beverages. A personal butler comes with your room in the Baker House. They hope you’ll get in the Victorian spirit and encourage guests to wear hats, chosen from many on display.

Trying on a hat in the Baker House.


The Baker House Dining Room overlooks Lake Geneva.

The main portion of Maxwell House sports a dark and moody Speakeasy Lounge in the basement. A drinking well that begs you to waste away a few hours. An on-property addition looks like a stable, but contains equestrian-style themed guest rooms. Even if you stay elsewhere, make reservations for Champagne brunch, high tea or dinner at one of these two historic inns. 

The gorgeous Maxwell House called to me.

Lake Lawn Resort, a few miles from downtown, is a family place where generations have returned to vacation in rustic style overlooking two miles of Delavan Lake shoreline. The 140-year old resort has seen additions and continual updates and renovations and offers a full array of indoor and outdoor activities. I stayed here and hated to leave the captivating property. Many guest suites include full kitchens, entertaining areas, lofts and patios with lake views, perfect for weeklong escapes. 

One of many lobbies in Lake Lawn Resort.

If you are headed toward Wisconsin, don’t miss dipping your toes in glorious Lake Geneva. For more info: visitlakegeneva.com.

Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

I apologize that my photos lack sunshine. They were taken on a a few rainy days I encountered while visiting Lake Geneva. I am sure the sun shines often and gives the lake a lovely glow — just not during my visit!!

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