Krakowian Cuisine: Tasting Traditional Polish Fare

Restaurant Review: Pod Baranem, Krakow

Given an afternoon tasting of traditional Polish food in Krakow, Poland, I expected spicy kielbasa, hearty whole grain bread and potato filled pierogies. Instead, I lavished in delicacies made from the hand of a passionate chef. Jan Baran, owner of Restaurant Pod Baranem, uses the finest natural ingredients seasoned with aromatic herbs. But, the sensational taste of his dishes comes through his attention to detail. I could truly taste his devotion and love of food, cooking and life in every bite.

I arrived at the multi-room restaurant sitting near Wawel Castle and across the Planty (former moat, now garden surrounding the Old Town). I found herbs hanging from wooden beams and crystal and silver adorning small tables covered in white damask. Antique furniture and two fireplaces created an upscale atmosphere that felt comfortable and welcoming.

My sampling extravaganza began with four appetizers, items I would normally skip, but was spurred on by their artistic presentation. I eagerly indulged on venison pate paired with Cumberland Sauce, marinated smoked salmon, a herring and onion salad and pork jelly. Each dish was so incredibly delicious; I could have eaten the entire serving. My favorite turned out to be the pork jelly! It simply melted in my mouth with buttery goodness.

Next came the soups: Borscht with dumplings, a fish soup, barley soup and a creamy beet soup. David, Jan’s son who works in the restaurant, acted an interpreter. He named the tomato based fish broth “Stinky Soup” while admitting his dislike for seafood. I found it extremely savory and totally unfishy. A bowl on a cold day would warm any one’s chilly soul. The beet based soups were certainly not peasant fare–surprisingly thick with a sensuous array of spices. I happen to love soup and found this scrumptious round of brothy goodness a highlight.

Fullness was creeping in, but alas, I needed to taste the entrees. First I tried the restaurant’s bestseller–stuffed cabbage with mushroom sauce. Individual portions of ground pork are wrapped in cabbage leaves and then slow roasted letting the two flavors marry. Before serving, the dish is topped with a cream based sauce dashed with small woodland treasures. Easy to understand why this comfort food is so popular.

Trout came next, also enclosed by a thin layer of cabbage served on a bed of slaw. The flaky fish entree takes 40 minutes to prepare, so diners need not rush through their appetizers.

I couldn’t resist the steaming pierogies that were perfectly boiled, not doughy and filled with velvety mashed potatoes. Amazingly Chef Barann has perfected a gluten-free recipe and Pod Baranem is one of only two restaurants in the country offering a gluten-free menu.

The last entree was a sliced saddle of venison presented with chef’s secret forest sauce. The tender meat dissolved in my mouth, truly a winner and so exquisitely satisfying. I wished I could have sat and savored the presentation.

Finally dessert arrived, the zenith of the meal and a fitting conclusion. Who can turn down a dense chocolatety Black Forest cake with cherries or a light raspberry jell or chiffon with mascarpone cheese? The gingerbread iced with glossy chocolate frosting was laced with liquor and tasted like Christmas. However, I saved the renowned Krystyna cake for last, a house specialty named for Jan’s wife of 32 years. The white cake with decadent whipped cream layers is ethereal and elegant, just like the lovely namesake.

I couldn’t have dined on a finer meal or met a more generous family. Thank you Jan, Krystyna, David and staff. Polish hospitality and kindness graced the afternoon and I am humbled to have been in your presence. I hope to return to Krakow someday and Pod Baranem will be the first place I visit.