No one complained about breakfast at 5:30 am, the Discover Corps group in Tanzania were headed to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area for the day (It’s usually referred to as the Ngorongoro Crater.) Ngorongoro is the world’s largest unflooded, intact volcanic caldera with the highest concentration of animals anywhere. We would arrive at sunrise and slowly drive around portions of the rim, then head down into the one-hundred square mile central plain.
Day 12: Discover Corps Experience Tanzania
I awoke as excited as a Mexican jumping bean, bouncing about with excess energy. The day had finally arrived for my African photo safari, and what better place than Tanzania. The Discover Corps group boarded the bus and set out for Arusha, situated at the foot of Mt. Meru. There, we would meet our safari guides and transfer to two Safari vehicles: khaki colored Land Cruisers with eight seats. Allen, our driver and guide, sat upfront and six of us sat in the back. The vans included a mini-fridge and power supply for charging electronics, plus a pop-up roof that would allow us to stand on the seats (without shoes) and take unobstructed photos.
We drove on for two more hours, passing Maasai lands, stretches of sun-parched fields where young herders with cattle or goats tended their flock. We zoomed by three Maasai men dressed in black. Their faces were painted black and looked rather scary. ( I was thrilled to capture a photo.)
Allen, who is Maasai (but now lives in the city), explained these men were participating in a ritual following their circumcision and initiation into manhood. The new warriors dress this way for several months as they heal. He said the face paint is to ward off the evil eye.
Maasai men are classed by age into three categories: boys, warriors and elders. Boys transition from herders to warrior and then to elder status, holding varying responsibilities for cattle, protecting, and advising the community.
Eventually, we reached Tarangire National Park, a wildlife sanctuary known for excellent large game sightings especially in the dry season- which was now- early September.
We stretched our legs, milled around the visitor center and ate box lunches, before setting off in the vans again. No sooner had we departed from the parking lot than we spied giraffes, zebras and gazelles in the distance. We focused on our cameras with a concentration equal to an operating neurosurgeon, but our guide told us we would soon see many more animals closer to the road.
Alan was right, we didn’t travel far until coming upon a pond with warthogs, wildebeest and antelope. The warthogs were bathing in the mud making us think of Pumbaa from the movie, The Lion King. We sang a few bars from Pumbaa and Timon’s song, then went on to a pretty sad rendition of The Lion Sleeps Tonight!
Next we noticed graceful zebras with sharply defined black and white patterns on their faces: beautiful.
Onward we drove and in retrospect, the next location is one of my fondest memories. Here we found a watering hole edged by a large herd of female elephants and many little ones. (You guessed it, we starting humming Baby Elephant Walk.) They seemed happy quenching their thirst, splashing in the pond and frolicking in the mud. One baby must have done something wrong because the females reprimanded with loud trumpets and chased him out of the water. Our guide explained that all the females in the group protect and teach the calves. They endearingly help each other raise the babies. (I wished I could have stayed and watched these elephants for much longer.)
Later, we captured photos of bull elephants (males), who travel in smaller groups and whose girth size was much larger.
Different areas of the park brought us extraordinary views. We saw the distant curves in the river, we peered down from overlooks and observed a variety of animals at lakes including one that was completely dry. Tarangire is renowned for having some of the biggest and oldest baobab trees in the world, some thought to be 1,000 years old. These behemoths make stunning silhouettes across the landscape: I adored them. Baobabs store large volumes of water in their trunks – which is why elephants chew the bark during dry seasons.
We also stopped to watch some bird species: a Bee-Eater, a lilac brested roller, a red-billed hornbill, and the gorgeous Superb Starling, perfectly named for its electric blue feathers. We also saw Pigmy Falcons and yellow-throated spurfowl, much like quail.
As we were driving back toward the park gates, we came upon a herd of elephants marching very near the road. We all fell silent, listening in awe to their footsteps swishing the withered grass. I couldn’t believe we were able to be so close to these mammoth giants – on average from 6-13,000 pounds, the largest mammals on earth. I will never forget that surprising moment.
As daylight began to dwindle, we left and rode high up into the mountains and checked into a small hotel at Karatu. That evening we heard a lecture from Raymond, head of the tour company, about the next day’s exciting outing to Ngorongoro Crater, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
I sank into my bed overwhelmed by this day’s gift: a rare opportunity to see and photograph wild African animals in their natural habitat. So far I’d counted off elephants, giraffes, and zebras from my personal Big Five list. I hoped to complete the listing by seeing a lion and a rhino in the Crater. Stay tuned to see if I do.
Enjoy this short video and the elephant march.
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For anyone interested in safari’s in Tanzania, I highly recommend Allen, our Maasai guide who works for the Maasai Warriors Tour Company, found at warriortrails.com.
Continuing my Discover Corps Experience Tanzania: Day 10 and 11
The morning hours of days 10 and 11 were spent much like previous mornings. We returned to the classroom and assisted with the English lessons. Afterward, we changed clothes and headed back to our classroom renovation project.
The women and teens put on the second coat of paint while the men, with the hired helper, finished the ceiling. We touched up areas and painted the window frames. We wished we could repaint the entire school, however, that was not to be.
On Day 11, we stood back and admired the work. Not perfection but quite okay. We took our “after” photos with big smiles.
The school gave us a big send off with the teachers and principals presenting us with cloth as gifts (similar to my birthday) as the children sang. We felt their sincere appreciation of our efforts.
The volunteer work provided me what I’d hope for: an opportunity to give of myself and touch the lives of others. It’s not that my group did that much, but I think more importantly, it was the positive interactions between the volunteers and Africans, cultural exchanges made with respect and love. We learned from each other. I’d be happy to volunteer again.
AFRICAN ADVENTURES
On the afternoon of Day 10, the Discover Corps volunteers were off to Chemka Hot Springs. We are told the location was rather remote. That was an understatement, for sure. We turned off the main road, then navigated down a road so dusty we had to proceed slowly or kick-up a Dukes of Hazard type dust clouds. We passed very few people, many abandoned shacks, and were sure we were going the wrong way. The Baobab and Acacia trees were our only friends.
Veronica and I shouted stop when we saw a sign that read Visitor Information Center – really? This easily wins the award for the most off the beaten track Visitor Center I have ever seen. Of course, no one was there!
After what seemed like an eternity, we arrived to a small parking lot surrounded by green trees. ” Just wait,” said our driver, and he was right. Here was an oasis in the desert.
We discovered a hidden natural spring with the clearest Caribbean-blue water. Unbelievable! The swimming hole looked inviting and the teens discovered a rope swing. In no time, they were Tarzan and Jane, leaping into the water with a yell. A few of the men joined in, but I just dangled my feet in until they got nibbled on by the fish. I’m not sure why I didn’t go in, it’s not like me, but that day I sat out and pondered.
The location was stunning, a total surprise to everyone. I enjoyed resting in this slice of African jungle, just a stone’s throw from the dry desert. I felt like I had in India, or what I called,” Incredible India.” Every day I would discover some unexpected gem; that’s what this was — a Tanzanian Treasure.
On the way back to basecamp we are treated to a spectacular African sunsets, yes, another Tanzanian Treasure.
Day 11 Adventures: The afternoon of day 11 allowed us to celebrate the previously mentioned completion of our school work.
After lunch, we were off on a trip into downtown Moshi. We thought we were going to meet an artist and didn’t understand that we were going to have another art lesson. Secy, the artist, introduced himself and his works: dramatic paintings that capture African culture and wildlife in vibrant colors.
The plan was for us to choose one of his works and try to recreate it on an already painted background.
Try is the word. Like with our batik lesson, we started off unsure of ourselves. Some of the paintings were marvelous. I enjoyed myself but was pretty embarrassed with my project. A painter I am not!
Secy’s studio contains a shop filled with carvings, artwork, instruments and tourist souvenirs. This is the only time during my trip that I feel like the ugly American. I didn’t want to buy these items and the sellers were very pushy. I felt very uncomfortable and tried to sneak out and enter the bus.
The evening was relaxing and a few of us walked to the local convenience store, which turns into a bar at night, for a Safari beer. We didn’t linger because we had two safari outings ahead of us. I packed an overnight bag, laid out my clothes and checked my camera bag. I was ready for bed and more than ready to see the real African treasures: lions, elephants and giraffe.